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Autumn garden jobs: what to do, and when - Home & Garden Extras
Autumn

Autumn garden jobs: what to do, and when

October is the month that sets the garden up for spring. The soil is still warm, the borders are going over, and there's a short window before the first hard frost to get the big jobs done.

We've grouped what we do in our own garden into four jobs. For each one you'll find why it matters, what to do and when, and the tools that make it easier. There's a quick checklist at the end of each section if you'd rather skip straight to the work.

1. Clear the leaves

Why it matters. Wet leaves left lying on the lawn block the light. Underneath, the grass yellows and moss and disease take hold, and you'll be repairing the patches in April.

What to do, and when. A little and often beats one big clear-up. Once the leaves start falling in earnest, usually from mid-October, clear the lawn once a week, and after any windy spell. Rake or blow them into a pile, then bag them up. Keep paths and steps clear too, as wet leaves are slippery underfoot.

If you have room, don't throw them away. Packed into a bag or a simple wire pen and left in a shady corner, leaves rot down into leaf mould: free, crumbly compost for mulching borders or potting. It takes a year or two, so this autumn's leaves feed the garden in 2028.

What to use. A wide, light bag you can sweep straight into saves a lot of bending. A wheelbarrow does the heavy moving.

Checklist

  • From mid-October: clear the lawn weekly and after wind
  • Keep paths and steps clear
  • Bag the rest for leaf mould if you have space

2. Stock the log store

Why it matters. Logs burn best after months of drying. Damp wood smokes, spits and gives out far less heat, and it leaves tar in the flue.

What to do, and when. Do it now, before the wet weather sets in. Split any larger rounds, because split logs dry much faster than whole ones. Stack them off the ground, keep the top covered, and leave the sides open so air can move round the stack. Burn your driest logs first, and anything you cut or buy fresh this winter goes to the back for next year.

Then keep a small holder by the back door or the hearth. A day's worth of logs within reach saves trips out on cold, dark evenings.

What to use.

Checklist

  • This month: split, stack off the ground and cover the top
  • Burn the driest logs first; stack new wood for next year
  • Keep a day's supply by the door

3. Tidy the beds, hedges and lawn

Why it matters. October is the last good month for these jobs. Once the ground goes cold, grass seed won't germinate and bulbs struggle to root.

What to do, and when.

  • Beds. Cut back perennials that have gone over and are collapsing. Leave anything with good seed heads or stiff stems, such as sedums and grasses: they look good with frost on them and give insects somewhere to shelter. Lift and store any plant supports you've finished with, so they last for years.
  • Bulbs. Plant daffodils now, at about three times the depth of the bulb, pointed end up. Tulips can wait until November, as planting them in colder soil helps them avoid tulip fire.
  • Hedges. Give them their last trim of the year now, so they go into winter neat and don't put on soft growth that the frost will damage. Check first that no birds are still using them.
  • Lawn. Rake out moss and thatch, then give a final autumn feed and overseed any bare patches by mid-October, while the soil is still warm enough for seed to take.

What to use.

Checklist

  • October: cut back spent perennials and keep the seed heads
  • October: plant daffodils; tulips in November
  • October: last hedge trim of the year
  • By mid-October: scarify, feed and overseed the lawn

4. Look after the birds

Why it matters. Natural food runs short from now on, as berries are stripped and insects disappear. Clean water matters as much as seed, especially once puddles and ponds start to freeze.

What to do, and when.

  • Now. Put up a bird house, so birds find it and use it to roost through the winter. A sheltered spot facing away from the prevailing wind is best, out of reach of cats.
  • From now until spring. Feed little and often, and keep it going once you start, because birds come to rely on it. Seed mixes, sunflower hearts and fat balls all help in the cold.
  • Every week or two. Clean feeders and the bird bath, and change the water. Dirty feeders spread disease between birds.
  • On frosty mornings. Top up the bird bath with fresh water, and break any ice.

What to use.

Checklist

  • Now: put up a bird house
  • From now to spring: feed little and often, and keep going
  • Every week or two: clean feeders and the bath
  • Frosty mornings: fresh water, ice broken

Autumn offers, until 31 October

Four offers to help with the jobs above, while stocks last.

Product Offer price Before
Leaf Sweep Bag, 200L Garden Tidy Bag £6.99 Was £8.99
Handy Cordless Grass and Hedge Shears £24.99 Was £29.99
Webb 90 Litre Poly Body Wheelbarrow £69.99 Was £79.99
Webb 20V 50cm Cordless Hedge Trimmer £79.99 RRP £89.99

 

Get these four jobs done in October and the garden goes into winter in good order, with less to put right in spring.

Tags: Autumn Garden jobs Seasonal guide

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Our top 10 gardening tips for June - Home & Garden Extras

Our top 10 gardening tips for June

It’s finally here! June sees the official start of summer on the twenty-first of the month. You and your garden will enjoy higher temperatures and longer hours of sunlight than in previous months. In terms of rain, there’s likely to be less than in May but more than in July and August, which are commonly very dry. Given these changing conditions, there’s plenty to do in your garden this month. We’ve picked out 10 top things to do to get you started. If you’re new to horticulture (the fancy word for gardening) and aren’t quite up to speed with all the jargon, don’t worry. We’ll explain everything as we go. Below is a list of our top 10 tips for June. You can either scroll past this list and read our article in full or click on a tip you’re interested in for information straight away. Plant out your bedding Move your baskets and pots outside Deadhead your roses Harvest your peas and new potatoes Keep things cool in your greenhouse Thin our your fruit trees Harden off your tender plants Mow your lawn every week Train your cordon tomatoes Plant your herbs in a pot next to the BBQ Plant out your bedding With the risk of frost gone, early June is a great time to plant out bedding to create beautiful flower displays for the summer – as well as filling in irksome gaps where spring flowers have faded and perennials are yet to bloom! Bedding refers to the temporary planting of fast-growing plants into flowerbeds to create colourful, seasonal arrangements. Once done flowering, the plants are disposed of. Planting out means moving a plant out from a protected environment – commonly a greenhouse – and into the ground. Following on from this, such plants are known as bedding plants and are typically: Annuals – Plants which complete their growing cycle in a year Biennials – Plants which complete their growing cycle in two years Tender perennials – Plants which can’t survive harsh conditions, particularly frost If you haven’t grown your own plants to bed, any local garden centre is sure to have a fantastic selection. Just make sure to pick a recent delivery which is looking fresh and healthy, and don’t delay as they’re sure to be popular. Although the recommended spacing will vary from plant to plant, make sure to keep them all well-watered for the first several weeks as they establish their roots. Move your baskets and pots outside As well as planting out your bedding, don’t forget to brighten up the rest of your outside space by moving baskets and pots outside. Safety should always come first, so make sure that any brackets you have are firmly attached to the wall before hanging up your baskets. You don’t want your beautiful displays ending up on the floor! Again, don't be discouraged if you missed your chance to plant containers and baskets earlier in the year; many garden centres sell them already planted. Go for those with plenty of flower buds that will put on a fantastic show in the upcoming weeks. When setting up your pots and baskets, you can ensure that any additional water is absorbed rather than leaking out by keeping a little gap between the top of the compost and the top of the container. Also, give hanging baskets and container displays a liquid feed to promote flowering every few weeks. Deadhead your roses June is heaven for rose lovers. At this point of the year, many varieties will be at their peak, delighting with their beautiful petals and scents. Unfortunately, good things don’t last forever – and roses are no exception. However, you can prolong their beauty through a process called deadheading. Deadheading is the removal of a plant’s flowers when they are dead or beginning to fade away. This not only improves how the plant looks immediately, it also encourages more blooms. The deadheading technique works as flowering is a stage in a plant’s reproductive cycle that aids in the development of seeds. Plants begin to blossom less (i.e. less lovely petals on your roses) and eventually stop once seeds have been generated. So, snipping off spent flowers will encourage more flowers to bloom. Roses should be deadheaded as frequently as possible now that they are fully blooming. To encourage the development of axillary buds, which will lead to more blooms, cut off their fading heads at a bud or leaf below. For multiple-flowered roses, take each bloom from the cluster as its petals start to fall, snipping with secateurs or pinching them out. While the remaining buds open, this will maintain the plant's good appearance. Remove the entire stalk once all the flowers in a cluster have faded. For roses with single flowers, cut off the flowerhead and around 15cm of the stem right above a robust, healthy leaf. That leaf joint will sprout your subsequent blossom stalk. Harvest your peas and new potatoes The first peas of the growing season, such as sugar snap peas, ought to be ripe for picking by June. Excitingly, the sweetest and tastiest peas in the crop are frequently those that are picked first. However, be sure to eat them right away, because sugar quickly turns into starch and the peas lose their flavour. By the middle of the month, early and second early cultivars of new potatoes should be ready to be dug up. It’s wise to leave some potatoes in the ground for later digging because subsequent potato harvests will be larger. Keep things cool in your greenhouse Depending on how much sun your greenhouse gets, it might be worth creating some shade to keep your plants cool and prevent scorching. You can do this by applying shading paint to the greenhouse’s glass or by installing shade nettings and blinds. You should also think about opening your greenhouse’s windows and doors on hot days for ventilation. As well as reducing temperature fluctuations, doing so will also let pollinating insects benefit your plants inside and lessen the risk of fungal disease! Thin out your fruit trees Typically, young fruit is abundant on fruit trees. In fact, there’s commonly so much fruit that they would all be small and irregular if every piece was left to grow. This is because a tree can’t supply enough nutrients to fuel growth in all the of the fruit it bears. Even though some fruit naturally drops off (known as the June drop), you still need to thin out your fruit trees even more for optimum growing. Reduce the amount of fruit on your trees so that the remaining ones are spaced at the following intervals: Cooking apples: 15-22cm Dessert apples: 10-15cm Peaches: 15-20cm Pears: 10-15cm Plums: 8-10cm Nectarines: 15cm Harden off your tender plants The last time we’re likely to experience frost is the end of May. With this risk out of the way, it’s time to plant out your tender plants – those which can’t survive outside during the winter. You can make the switch to outdoor growing for your tender plants easier by hardening them off. Hardening off refers to a plant's gradual transfer from a safe indoor environment to the outside. Moving the plants gradually will help them deal with the change in temperature, wind, and their now direct exposure to sunlight. The shock of being taken outside unexpectedly can significantly slow a plant's growth. So, even though plants commonly recover eventually if they’re abruptly placed outside, hardening off is the preferable approach. The least complicated method is to place your plants outside during the day and bring them in overnight for at least seven days. Mow your lawn every week With the increased temperature and hours of sunlight, your lawn can easily get out of hand during June. So, try and mow your lawn once a week. Lower the cutting height for established lawns and make sure to water newly seeded grass during dry spells. However, don’t worry if you haven’t got the time to do this every week – we know you’re busy! Simply trim the edges of the lawn with an electric trimmer. This will keep things looking neat until you have the chance for a full mow. As well as being good for your lawn, warm weather also encourages rapid weed growth. You can tackle this issue in two ways. Firstly, go over your lawn with a springtime rake before you mow. This lifts low, creeping weeds like clover and yarrow so that they get caught in the mower blades. Secondly, apply a specific lawn weed killer. Train your cordon tomatoes Controlling a plant's direction, shape, and size is known as training. A gardener trains plants to enhance flower or plant management, size, and quality, as well as to safeguard them from harm. Such a process is required for cordon tomatoes – those which are grown as a single-stemmed vine. Specifically, they need to be trained to increase production and stop side shoots from growing into an untidy plant. To direct the plant's energy toward producing the fruit, cordon tomato plants must be trained to have a single central stem. Plant your herbs in a pot next to the BBQ Your favourite herbs, such as basil, chives, sage, tarragon, and parsley, can be planted in a container and kept close to your barbeque. When you need to grab a handful of herbs, they'll be waiting there ready for you! A container should be able to last you the entire summer if you remember to feed and water your plants.  

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Our top 10 gardening tips for May - Home & Garden Extras

Our top 10 gardening tips for May

It’s an exciting time of year for gardening enthusiasts. The weather is warming up and the flowers are blooming. May is often seen as one of the best months for gardening – the fresh spring air and excitement of the coming summer create a feeling of promise and renewal. Gardeners across the country eagerly await this time of year, looking forward to getting their hands dirty. Take advantage of the warmer weather by preparing for the summer. This is the perfect time to ensure that your garden is in top shape, with colourful spring bedding plants blooming and trees fully covered in leaves. We have compiled a list of the top 10 gardening tips that will help you make the most of this beautiful month whether you're a seasoned or new gardener. You can begin at the start of the blog and read through until the end, or you can choose a section from the list below, click, and be taken straight there. Whichever you choose, we hope you find our article useful! Prepare your garden for summer Watch out for pests and diseases Change your bedding If it’s dry out, water newly planted trees and shrubs Tie in climbers regularly Continue deadheading Look after your lawn Harden off tender veg Propagate perennials Enjoy your garden Prepare your garden for summer Before the really hot weather arrives, it's important to prepare your garden for summer. Use your pruning tools to remove any dead or diseased wood from your trees and shrubs, and remove any weeds and cultivate the soil. This will create a healthy environment for your plants to grow in. Fertilize your plants with a slow-release fertilizer and top-dress with compost. Mulch your beds with a layer of organic material to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Watch out for pests and diseases As the temperature rises, it's important to remain vigilant against pests and diseases in your garden. While it may be necessary to resort to chemical controls in severe cases, it's worth noting that the long-term use of synthetic chemicals can lead to further issues. These chemicals can eliminate not only the pests but also beneficial insects, such as ladybirds, that feed on them. If you must resort to spraying, try to do so on a calm day as late in the evening as possible, when the number of beneficial insects in the area is likely to be at a minimum. insect house. Also, you can read more about insect houses and beneficial insects in our blog ‘The beginner's guide to bug hotels and insect houses’. Change your bedding As various plants prepare to bloom in the upcoming summer season, it's important to start thinking about replacing your spring bedding plants. Nurseries and garden centres will offer a wide range of summer bedding plants for sale, but it's best to resist the urge to purchase them too early in May, unless you have a frost-free greenhouse, conservatory, or cold frame to keep them in. These plants are generally quite delicate, and in northern regions, it may not be advisable to plant them outside until late in the month or even into June. In more southern, protected areas, you may be able to plant your summer bedding around the middle of the month, but it's important to keep an eye on the weather forecasts. If it’s dry out, water newly planted trees and shrubs During periods of sunny weather and drying winds, the soil can dry out surprisingly quickly, and it may be necessary to water on a daily basis. It's especially important to ensure that new woody plants receive adequate water until their roots have established themselves and are able to search for moisture deeper in the soil. Adding organic matter, such as garden compost or rotted manure, either as a mulch or dug into the soil, can help to retain moisture and provide good water-holding potential for growing roots. Even a layer of grass clippings, spread around the plant (but not touching the stems) at a thickness of 5-8cm (2-3in), can help to keep the soil moist. To prevent water from evaporating from the soil in the heat of the day, it's best to water in the evenings when there is less chance of it evaporating. Tie in climbers regularly Regularly tying in the shoots of vigorous climbers like roses, clematis, and vines is essential to prevent them from overtaking and choking out other nearby plants. Separating tangled climbers from other plants can be a frustrating task that is best avoided. To provide support for these climbers, fixing wide-mesh wire netting to walls and fences is the simplest option. If you prefer a more decorative approach, a trellis is a good choice, but it's important to choose lighter climbers so that they don't hide the trellis from view. Continue deadheading Deadheading is the process of removing spent blooms from your flowering plants. Regular deadheading encourages continued blooming, as it prevents the plant from putting energy into producing seeds. To maintain the appearance of your garden, it's important to keep deadheading spring-flowering bulbs that are still blooming. We’d recommend deadheading the following plants: Daffodils: Remove the faded flowers once they start to wilt to prevent the plant from expending energy on seed production and instead use that energy to store nutrients for next year's growth. Tulips: Deadhead tulips as soon as the petals start to fall off. This will help the plant focus its energy on bulb growth rather than seed production. Snap off the heads of tulips but leave the stalks intact. Don't remove the foliage until at least six weeks after the last flower has bloomed. Lilacs: Remove spent blooms from lilacs as soon as possible to encourage more flowers next year. Peonies: Deadheading peonies can promote the development of more lateral buds and increase the plant's overall flower production. Look after your lawn Whilst the grass is growing well, we’d recommend that you mow your lawn once a week. You can lower the blades of your mower slightly each time you mow to cut the grass a little closer, but be careful not to lower them too much as it may cause your lawn to be 'scalped'. This can lead to yellowing of the grass, bare patches and allow weeds and moss to grow. If you haven't fed your established lawn yet, it is advisable to do so now. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when applying fertiliser. Some modern fertilisers come with anti-scorch properties, so using a little more than recommended won't be an issue. However, applying too much fertiliser can be wasteful. You can use a selective weedkiller to get rid of weeds in your lawn, but make sure you check if the weed you want to eliminate can be treated using this method before purchasing the product. This is the right time to do this task since weeds are growing rapidly and the weedkiller will be more effective. It's essential to always use a selective lawn weedkiller. Harden off tender veg Towards the end of spring, specific crops that have been grown indoors require a period of adaptation to adjust to outdoor conditions and enhance their chances of survival. Plants like chillies, courgettes, cucumbers, peppers, squashes, and tomatoes that were grown indoors require a gradual adjustment period to the colder and windier outdoor environment. The same applies to plants purchased from garden centres or online. When indoor-raised crops or plants bought online or at garden centres are immediately planted outside, they can experience a temperature shock that can stunt their growth and cause leaf curling, discoloration, and even bleaching from strong sunlight. Although stunted plants can recover, the sudden transfer outdoors can delay their establishment and affect their performance, leading to delayed flowering and cropping. It's important to note that while delicate plants are more susceptible to low temperatures and require more time to acclimate, even resilient vegetables grown indoors can benefit from a hardening off period to avoid shock. Begin acclimatizing plants gradually in phases, about 2-3 weeks prior to planting outside. Tender plants should only be transplanted after the danger of frost has passed, which is generally in mid to late May in southern England and later in the north and Scotland. Start by placing the plants in a sheltered area outdoors, such as a porch or patio, for a few hours each day. Gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside each day over the two to three weeks. Once the plants have been outside for a few days, gradually expose them to more direct sunlight. Start with morning sun and gradually increase the amount of time they spend in the sun each day. During the hardening-off process, monitor the weather and bring the plants inside if there is a risk of frost or strong winds. Finally, after the frost risk has passed in your area, usually mid to late May in the south of England and later into June in the north and Scotland, plant the hardened-off vegetables outside in their permanent positions. Propagate perennials Spring’s vigorous young shoots are ripe for propagating. Boost stocks of perennials and shrubs for your garden by taking softwood cuttings now. The tender new shoots of perennials and deciduous shrubs will root readily if you take cuttings now. Propagate your favourite plants to make more for free. Easy-rooters to start with include penstemon, lavender, Erysimum, fuchsia, and hydrangea. In the morning, while plants are still full of water, remove 10cm-long, non-flowering shoots, cutting just above a bud on the parent plant. Place the cuttings in a polythene bag straight away and keep them out of the sun to help them retain their water. Trim the cuttings, one by one, using a sharp knife. Cut just below a leaf joint and remove the lower leaves. Insert the cuttings, base first, around the edge of a pot of compost, with the first pair of leaves sitting just above compost level. Water and cover the pot with a polythene bag. Place it in the greenhouse or a warm spot out of direct sunlight for six to eight weeks. Keep the compost moist until the cuttings root. When roots have formed, pot individually and grow on. Enjoy your garden May is a busy time in the garden, but don't forget to enjoy it! Take time to appreciate the beauty around you, set up a comfortable seating area to relax, connect with others, and engage your senses. Remember, while it's important to work hard, it's equally important to take a few moments to enjoy the magic of your garden in May. Conclusion May is the perfect time to get your hands dirty and start prepping your garden for the summer. We've listed our top 10 tips to help you create a beautiful and healthy garden. If you’d like more advice, make sure to check out the other articles on our gardening blog.

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Our top 10 gardening tips for April - Home & Garden Extras

Our top 10 gardening tips for April

Now that we are well and truly into spring, April is perhaps one of the most exciting months of the gardening year. Plants and flowerbeds begin to look green and vibrant. Also, the clocks moved forward on the last Sunday of March, so there’s plenty more sunshine in the day to tempt you out into your garden! Having said this, the weather in April can be famously temperamental. In just one day you can have beautiful sunshine in the morning and then significant rain in the afternoon – and then it’ll all have cleared up again by dinner time! But as the old saying goes, April showers bring May flowers. Whether you're a seasoned pro or a novice green-thumbed enthusiast, there's always something new to learn about gardening. In this blog post, we're sharing our top 10 gardening tips for April to help you make the most of this beautiful month. There are two ways to approach reading this blog: You can either start at the beginning and work your way down to the end, or you can click on the section in the list below that most appeals to you and you'll be directed to it immediately. Cut back lavender Plant hedging plants and trees Plant strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries Sow annual climbers Plant an alpine trough Start mowing your lawn every week Give your borders a tidy up Sow annual grasses Buy bedding plants as plugs Plant summer-flowering bulbs Cut back lavender At the start of spring, prune the tips of all lavender shoots with secateurs or shears. Once your lavender plants reach the size you desire, it's recommended that you trim them. Neglecting to prune them can result in sparse growth at the centre of the shrub, making the plant look unsightly overall. Additionally, older wood pruning is not preferred by lavender plants. Therefore, it's best to trim them annually in the springtime to maintain their bushy and compact appearance. Plant hedging plants and trees Planting new hedging plants and trees can be a great way to add colour and interest to your garden. And you’re in luck as spring is the best time for planting them! It's when the soil is warm enough for their roots to establish. Choose a sunny spot so that they can grow quickly in warm weather and flower at their best. Evergreen hedging plants This is the perfect time of the year for planting evergreen plants, including both conifers and various broad-leaved plants that make excellent hedges. These plants can be pruned into shapes or left to grow naturally and trimmed only when they become too large. By planting evergreens during this time, they are less likely to be harmed by cold winter winds. However, strong winds can also cause damage during spring and summer, as they can draw water from the leaves more quickly than the plant can replenish it from the dry soil. If this occurs frequently, it may be necessary to install more windbreaks or screens to shield your garden or consider replacing the damaged plants with ones that are more tolerant of wind and drought. Container-grown trained fruit trees It's too late to plant bare-root fruit trees and bushes in April, but there are still many container-grown options available, including different varieties trained in attractive shapes. Container-grown plants have the advantage of being plantable any time of year since their root systems aren't disturbed. They can even be purchased in flower and may produce some fruit in the first year of planting, but it's best not to take too much fruit during this time. Instead, focus on letting the plants establish themselves now so that they can produce even better yields in the future. Plant strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries Spring is the ideal time to plant delicate fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries. It's important to get them into the ground as soon as possible after purchase. When planting, select a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and avoid planting them in containers or pots as they won't receive enough sunlight or water if kept indoors. For strawberries, it's essential to avoid planting them too deep in the soil; half an inch beneath the surface is sufficient. Additionally, don't plant them too close together, as this will result in competition for nutrients and water beneath the leaves, which can lead to disease problems when the fruit begins to grow on top of these leaves rather than inside each individual berry. This might seem complicated, but it's important to follow these guidelines for optimal growth and fruit production! Use fertiliser to give your roses and trees a boost It's recommended to fertilize roses with a high-potassium fertilizer, such as rose food or blood, fish, and bone, during early April. If you're unsure which brand to use, seek advice from your local garden centre or nursery to find the most suitable product for your area. Follow instructions carefully when using chemical products, wear gloves when handling them, and keep them out of reach of children. For fruit trees, it's important to feed them with a suitable fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer in spring when buds start to appear, but before they open. Doing so allows the tree to absorb the nutrients before producing leaves that may block sunlight from new growth. It's also important to avoid damaging the roots by applying the fertilizer in a manner that minimizes the risk of root burn. Sow annual climbers Although we love sweet peas, we also love seeing some variety when it comes to annual climbers! Try something different on garden trellises and obelisks this summer by sowing an alternative fast-growing annual climber. Apart from sweet peas, other climbing plants grown from seed each year are often overlooked. However, there are many other climbing plants with exciting features, such as colourful foliage or beautiful flowers, which you can grow. The best part is that they can be changed every year, making it a fun and creative experiment. Most of these plants are half-hardy, and it's best to sow them in late March or April in the warmth of a propagator or on a windowsill. Once they have germinated and been potted, the young plants can be taken outside at the end of May, after the risk of frost has passed. Cobaea scandens, also known as the cup and saucer vine, has trumpet-shaped, purple flowers that sit in a green sepal 'saucer' and blooms from late summer to the first frost. It looks great on a rusted metal arch, especially when planted alongside its white version, Alba. If you love fiery colours, Ipomea lobata or Spanish flag, with its red, yellow, and white flowers, is perfect for you. You can try growing it on obelisks in a hot border or let it rampage through bright pink dahlias, similar to what is done at Great Dixter. Rhodochiton atrosanguineus has interesting flowers, a maroon-purple bell with an almost black 'clapper' hanging from the center. It pairs beautifully with the peach-toned flowers of Thunbergia alata 'African Sunset.' Plant an alpine trough Alpine plants that bloom in spring are varied, vibrant, and charming. It is unlikely that you will have a proper place in your garden to grow alpine plants in the ground – unless of course your soil is incredibly well-draining or you have a dedicated rockery. A better idea is to plant them in a dedicated trough or container, where they can receive the freely-draining soil they require, allowing you to appreciate these detailed plants up close. You will need An assortment of pretty alpines; choose plants that flower at different times for a show throughout the year A shallow trough or container ‘Alpine mix’ gritty compost Broken pots and coarse gravel Method Step 1 Purchase or repurpose a visually appealing container, such as a stone trough or an antique butler sink, for your plants. Any type of container can be used, as long as it is shallow and has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to ensure proper water drainage. Step 2 To promote proper drainage, put a layer of coarse gravel followed by pieces of broken pots at the bottom of the container. Step 3 Prior to planting your alpines in the container, spread a layer of alpine compost with a gritty texture over the coarse gravel layer. Next, arrange your plants in the container, filling in the gaps with more compost mix, and finally water them in. Step 4 Complete the process by applying a layer of small pebbles or grit around the alpines. This will enhance their appearance, prevent the growth of weeds and safeguard the plant bases against heavy rainfall. Start mowing your lawn every week As the temperature rises and the grass starts growing, it's important to start mowing your lawn regularly again. If left too long, it can become much harder to cut back. Keeping the blades of your mower set high to start with is a good idea. For some gardeners, mowing the lawn is just another chore, while for others it's a satisfying task that enhances the beauty of the garden. A well-manicured lawn with light and dark stripes and neatly trimmed edges is a wonderful addition to any garden. To maintain a healthy lawn, it's best to keep the grass at a length of 30-40mm, allowing it to stay smart and resist periods of drought. Leaving some parts of the lawn unmown from late spring can help attract insects and create a decorative effect. Expect to mow once a week when the grass is growing strongly. Give borders a tidy up Although not the most fun of tasks, giving your borders a tidy will make a big difference to how your garden looks. Allocate a day to attend to the minor tasks in your garden, which can have a significant impact on its overall appearance. Use a garden fork to loosen the soil and remove any weeds. Trim any plants that are overcrowding or growing over others to maintain their neatness, but be careful not to cut off any blooms that may appear this year. Also, make sure to install plant supports while you work to give a helping hands to plants that are struggling. Sow annual grasses Sowing annual grasses can add delicate foliage and attractive seedheads to your borders, providing a naturalistic look. Briza maxima, Lagurus ovatus, and Hordeum jubatum are popular annual grasses that can be sown directly into the soil or in drills. To prevent confusion with weed grasses, sow them in drills and label them accordingly. Scratch shallow drills in the soil with a stick and water them if they seem dry. After covering the seeds lightly, thin out the young seedlings and transplant them among your plants when they are big enough. You can even dry the seedheads and use them in flower arrangements. Buy bedding plants as plugs To avoid the hassle of sowing seeds early on and taking care of them until they are ready to be planted out, many people now prefer buying bedding plants as plugs, which are becoming increasingly popular. This method is especially convenient for those who have space under glass to bring on the young plants, and it eliminates the time-consuming process of seed germination. Furthermore, buying young plants is easier than sowing difficult seeds like busy Lizzie. Most bedding plants are available in small modular trays, with one plant per cell. When the young plants arrive, they can be potted up into 9cm pots with peat-free compost and grown on in a cool greenhouse or conservatory, without too much heat. Towards the end of the month, plant up hanging baskets, allowing the plants to fill out before they are put outside in early June, after the threat of frost has passed. Plant summer-flowering bulbs Summer-flowering bulbs should ideally be planted in April, as this gives them time to establish themselves before the warm summer weather arrives. Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil for your bulbs. If your soil is heavy or tends to hold water, you can improve drainage by adding some grit or sand to the soil before planting. When planting bulbs, make sure to dig a hole that is roughly three times the height of the bulb itself. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing upwards, and cover it with soil. Space your bulbs out according to their planting depth and size. Generally, larger bulbs will need to be spaced further apart than smaller bulbs. Water your bulbs after planting, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until the bulbs have established. Once your bulbs have started growing, you may need to stake them to keep them upright. This is especially important for taller bulbs like gladioli. Many summer-flowering bulbs are not frost-hardy, so if you live in an area with late frosts, it's a good idea to protect your bulbs with a layer of mulch or horticultural fleece. To prolong the flowering season of your bulbs, you can plant them in batches over a few weeks, rather than all at once. After your bulbs have finished flowering, allow the foliage to die back naturally before removing it. This allows the bulb to store up energy for next year's growth. Some summer-flowering bulbs, like dahlias, can be lifted and stored over winter to protect them from frost damage. If you plan to do this, wait until the foliage has died back completely before lifting the bulbs, and store them in a cool, dry place. Conclusion So there you have it, our top 10 gardening tips for April. We hope they've inspired you to get out there and get planting! If you want more advice on how to get started with your own garden or just want some inspiration, check out our blog where we post regular articles on all things green-fingered.

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