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Our top 10 gardening tips for June

May 11, 2023 Alex Mason

It’s finally here! June sees the official start of summer on the twenty-first of the month. You and your garden will enjoy higher temperatures and longer hours of sunlight than in previous months. In terms of rain, there’s likely to be less than in May but more than in July and August, which are commonly very dry. Given these changing conditions, there’s plenty to do in your garden this month. We’ve picked out 10 top things to do to get you started. If you’re new to horticulture (the fancy word for gardening) and aren’t quite up to speed with all the jargon, don’t worry. We’ll explain everything as we go. Below is a list of our top 10 tips for June. You can either scroll past this list and read our article in full or click on a tip you’re interested in for information straight away. Plant out your bedding Move your baskets and pots outside Deadhead your roses Harvest your peas and new potatoes Keep things cool in your greenhouse Thin our your fruit trees Harden off your tender plants Mow your lawn every week Train your cordon tomatoes Plant your herbs in a pot next to the BBQ Plant out your bedding With the risk of frost gone, early June is a great time to plant out bedding to create beautiful flower displays for the summer – as well as filling in irksome gaps where spring flowers have faded and perennials are yet to bloom! Bedding refers to the temporary planting of fast-growing plants into flowerbeds to create colourful, seasonal arrangements. Once done flowering, the plants are disposed of. Planting out means moving a plant out from a protected environment – commonly a greenhouse – and into the ground. Following on from this, such plants are known as bedding plants and are typically: Annuals – Plants which complete their growing cycle in a year Biennials – Plants which complete their growing cycle in two years Tender perennials – Plants which can’t survive harsh conditions, particularly frost If you haven’t grown your own plants to bed, any local garden centre is sure to have a fantastic selection. Just make sure to pick a recent delivery which is looking fresh and healthy, and don’t delay as they’re sure to be popular. Although the recommended spacing will vary from plant to plant, make sure to keep them all well-watered for the first several weeks as they establish their roots. Move your baskets and pots outside As well as planting out your bedding, don’t forget to brighten up the rest of your outside space by moving baskets and pots outside. Safety should always come first, so make sure that any brackets you have are firmly attached to the wall before hanging up your baskets. You don’t want your beautiful displays ending up on the floor! Again, don't be discouraged if you missed your chance to plant containers and baskets earlier in the year; many garden centres sell them already planted. Go for those with plenty of flower buds that will put on a fantastic show in the upcoming weeks. When setting up your pots and baskets, you can ensure that any additional water is absorbed rather than leaking out by keeping a little gap between the top of the compost and the top of the container. Also, give hanging baskets and container displays a liquid feed to promote flowering every few weeks. Deadhead your roses June is heaven for rose lovers. At this point of the year, many varieties will be at their peak, delighting with their beautiful petals and scents. Unfortunately, good things don’t last forever – and roses are no exception. However, you can prolong their beauty through a process called deadheading. Deadheading is the removal of a plant’s flowers when they are dead or beginning to fade away. This not only improves how the plant looks immediately, it also encourages more blooms. The deadheading technique works as flowering is a stage in a plant’s reproductive cycle that aids in the development of seeds. Plants begin to blossom less (i.e. less lovely petals on your roses) and eventually stop once seeds have been generated. So, snipping off spent flowers will encourage more flowers to bloom. Roses should be deadheaded as frequently as possible now that they are fully blooming. To encourage the development of axillary buds, which will lead to more blooms, cut off their fading heads at a bud or leaf below. For multiple-flowered roses, take each bloom from the cluster as its petals start to fall, snipping with secateurs or pinching them out. While the remaining buds open, this will maintain the plant's good appearance. Remove the entire stalk once all the flowers in a cluster have faded. For roses with single flowers, cut off the flowerhead and around 15cm of the stem right above a robust, healthy leaf. That leaf joint will sprout your subsequent blossom stalk. Harvest your peas and new potatoes The first peas of the growing season, such as sugar snap peas, ought to be ripe for picking by June. Excitingly, the sweetest and tastiest peas in the crop are frequently those that are picked first. However, be sure to eat them right away, because sugar quickly turns into starch and the peas lose their flavour. By the middle of the month, early and second early cultivars of new potatoes should be ready to be dug up. It’s wise to leave some potatoes in the ground for later digging because subsequent potato harvests will be larger. Keep things cool in your greenhouse Depending on how much sun your greenhouse gets, it might be worth creating some shade to keep your plants cool and prevent scorching. You can do this by applying shading paint to the greenhouse’s glass or by installing shade nettings and blinds. You should also think about opening your greenhouse’s windows and doors on hot days for ventilation. As well as reducing temperature fluctuations, doing so will also let pollinating insects benefit your plants inside and lessen the risk of fungal disease! Thin out your fruit trees Typically, young fruit is abundant on fruit trees. In fact, there’s commonly so much fruit that they would all be small and irregular if every piece was left to grow. This is because a tree can’t supply enough nutrients to fuel growth in all the of the fruit it bears. Even though some fruit naturally drops off (known as the June drop), you still need to thin out your fruit trees even more for optimum growing. Reduce the amount of fruit on your trees so that the remaining ones are spaced at the following intervals: Cooking apples: 15-22cm Dessert apples: 10-15cm Peaches: 15-20cm Pears: 10-15cm Plums: 8-10cm Nectarines: 15cm Harden off your tender plants The last time we’re likely to experience frost is the end of May. With this risk out of the way, it’s time to plant out your tender plants – those which can’t survive outside during the winter. You can make the switch to outdoor growing for your tender plants easier by hardening them off. Hardening off refers to a plant's gradual transfer from a safe indoor environment to the outside. Moving the plants gradually will help them deal with the change in temperature, wind, and their now direct exposure to sunlight. The shock of being taken outside unexpectedly can significantly slow a plant's growth. So, even though plants commonly recover eventually if they’re abruptly placed outside, hardening off is the preferable approach. The least complicated method is to place your plants outside during the day and bring them in overnight for at least seven days. Mow your lawn every week With the increased temperature and hours of sunlight, your lawn can easily get out of hand during June. So, try and mow your lawn once a week. Lower the cutting height for established lawns and make sure to water newly seeded grass during dry spells. However, don’t worry if you haven’t got the time to do this every week – we know you’re busy! Simply trim the edges of the lawn with an electric trimmer. This will keep things looking neat until you have the chance for a full mow. As well as being good for your lawn, warm weather also encourages rapid weed growth. You can tackle this issue in two ways. Firstly, go over your lawn with a springtime rake before you mow. This lifts low, creeping weeds like clover and yarrow so that they get caught in the mower blades. Secondly, apply a specific lawn weed killer. Train your cordon tomatoes Controlling a plant's direction, shape, and size is known as training. A gardener trains plants to enhance flower or plant management, size, and quality, as well as to safeguard them from harm. Such a process is required for cordon tomatoes – those which are grown as a single-stemmed vine. Specifically, they need to be trained to increase production and stop side shoots from growing into an untidy plant. To direct the plant's energy toward producing the fruit, cordon tomato plants must be trained to have a single central stem. Plant your herbs in a pot next to the BBQ Your favourite herbs, such as basil, chives, sage, tarragon, and parsley, can be planted in a container and kept close to your barbeque. When you need to grab a handful of herbs, they'll be waiting there ready for you! A container should be able to last you the entire summer if you remember to feed and water your plants.

Our top 10 gardening tips for May

It’s an exciting time of year for gardening enthusiasts. The weather is warming up and the flowers are blooming. May is often seen as one of the best months for gardening – the fresh spring air and excitement of the coming summer create a feeling of promise and renewal. Gardeners across the country eagerly await this time of year, looking forward to getting their hands dirty. Take advantage of the warmer weather by preparing for the summer. This is the perfect time to ensure that your garden is in top shape, with colourful spring bedding plants blooming and trees fully covered in leaves. We have compiled a list of the top 10 gardening tips that will help you make the most of this beautiful month whether you're a seasoned or new gardener. You can begin at the start of the blog and read through until the end, or you can choose a section from the list below, click, and be taken straight there. Whichever you choose, we hope you find our article useful! Prepare your garden for summer Watch out for pests and diseases Change your bedding If it’s dry out, water newly planted trees and shrubs Tie in climbers regularly Continue deadheading Look after your lawn Harden off tender veg Propagate perennials Enjoy your garden Prepare your garden for summer Before the really hot weather arrives, it's important to prepare your garden for summer. Use your pruning tools to remove any dead or diseased wood from your trees and shrubs, and remove any weeds and cultivate the soil. This will create a healthy environment for your plants to grow in. Fertilize your plants with a slow-release fertilizer and top-dress with compost. Mulch your beds with a layer of organic material to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Watch out for pests and diseases As the temperature rises, it's important to remain vigilant against pests and diseases in your garden. While it may be necessary to resort to chemical controls in severe cases, it's worth noting that the long-term use of synthetic chemicals can lead to further issues. These chemicals can eliminate not only the pests but also beneficial insects, such as ladybirds, that feed on them. If you must resort to spraying, try to do so on a calm day as late in the evening as possible, when the number of beneficial insects in the area is likely to be at a minimum. insect house. Also, you can read more about insect houses and beneficial insects in our blog ‘The beginner's guide to bug hotels and insect houses’. Change your bedding As various plants prepare to bloom in the upcoming summer season, it's important to start thinking about replacing your spring bedding plants. Nurseries and garden centres will offer a wide range of summer bedding plants for sale, but it's best to resist the urge to purchase them too early in May, unless you have a frost-free greenhouse, conservatory, or cold frame to keep them in. These plants are generally quite delicate, and in northern regions, it may not be advisable to plant them outside until late in the month or even into June. In more southern, protected areas, you may be able to plant your summer bedding around the middle of the month, but it's important to keep an eye on the weather forecasts. If it’s dry out, water newly planted trees and shrubs During periods of sunny weather and drying winds, the soil can dry out surprisingly quickly, and it may be necessary to water on a daily basis. It's especially important to ensure that new woody plants receive adequate water until their roots have established themselves and are able to search for moisture deeper in the soil. Adding organic matter, such as garden compost or rotted manure, either as a mulch or dug into the soil, can help to retain moisture and provide good water-holding potential for growing roots. Even a layer of grass clippings, spread around the plant (but not touching the stems) at a thickness of 5-8cm (2-3in), can help to keep the soil moist. To prevent water from evaporating from the soil in the heat of the day, it's best to water in the evenings when there is less chance of it evaporating. Tie in climbers regularly Regularly tying in the shoots of vigorous climbers like roses, clematis, and vines is essential to prevent them from overtaking and choking out other nearby plants. Separating tangled climbers from other plants can be a frustrating task that is best avoided. To provide support for these climbers, fixing wide-mesh wire netting to walls and fences is the simplest option. If you prefer a more decorative approach, a trellis is a good choice, but it's important to choose lighter climbers so that they don't hide the trellis from view. Continue deadheading Deadheading is the process of removing spent blooms from your flowering plants. Regular deadheading encourages continued blooming, as it prevents the plant from putting energy into producing seeds. To maintain the appearance of your garden, it's important to keep deadheading spring-flowering bulbs that are still blooming. We’d recommend deadheading the following plants: Daffodils: Remove the faded flowers once they start to wilt to prevent the plant from expending energy on seed production and instead use that energy to store nutrients for next year's growth. Tulips: Deadhead tulips as soon as the petals start to fall off. This will help the plant focus its energy on bulb growth rather than seed production. Snap off the heads of tulips but leave the stalks intact. Don't remove the foliage until at least six weeks after the last flower has bloomed. Lilacs: Remove spent blooms from lilacs as soon as possible to encourage more flowers next year. Peonies: Deadheading peonies can promote the development of more lateral buds and increase the plant's overall flower production. Look after your lawn Whilst the grass is growing well, we’d recommend that you mow your lawn once a week. You can lower the blades of your mower slightly each time you mow to cut the grass a little closer, but be careful not to lower them too much as it may cause your lawn to be 'scalped'. This can lead to yellowing of the grass, bare patches and allow weeds and moss to grow. If you haven't fed your established lawn yet, it is advisable to do so now. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when applying fertiliser. Some modern fertilisers come with anti-scorch properties, so using a little more than recommended won't be an issue. However, applying too much fertiliser can be wasteful. You can use a selective weedkiller to get rid of weeds in your lawn, but make sure you check if the weed you want to eliminate can be treated using this method before purchasing the product. This is the right time to do this task since weeds are growing rapidly and the weedkiller will be more effective. It's essential to always use a selective lawn weedkiller. Harden off tender veg Towards the end of spring, specific crops that have been grown indoors require a period of adaptation to adjust to outdoor conditions and enhance their chances of survival. Plants like chillies, courgettes, cucumbers, peppers, squashes, and tomatoes that were grown indoors require a gradual adjustment period to the colder and windier outdoor environment. The same applies to plants purchased from garden centres or online. When indoor-raised crops or plants bought online or at garden centres are immediately planted outside, they can experience a temperature shock that can stunt their growth and cause leaf curling, discoloration, and even bleaching from strong sunlight. Although stunted plants can recover, the sudden transfer outdoors can delay their establishment and affect their performance, leading to delayed flowering and cropping. It's important to note that while delicate plants are more susceptible to low temperatures and require more time to acclimate, even resilient vegetables grown indoors can benefit from a hardening off period to avoid shock. Begin acclimatizing plants gradually in phases, about 2-3 weeks prior to planting outside. Tender plants should only be transplanted after the danger of frost has passed, which is generally in mid to late May in southern England and later in the north and Scotland. Start by placing the plants in a sheltered area outdoors, such as a porch or patio, for a few hours each day. Gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside each day over the two to three weeks. Once the plants have been outside for a few days, gradually expose them to more direct sunlight. Start with morning sun and gradually increase the amount of time they spend in the sun each day. During the hardening-off process, monitor the weather and bring the plants inside if there is a risk of frost or strong winds. Finally, after the frost risk has passed in your area, usually mid to late May in the south of England and later into June in the north and Scotland, plant the hardened-off vegetables outside in their permanent positions. Propagate perennials Spring’s vigorous young shoots are ripe for propagating. Boost stocks of perennials and shrubs for your garden by taking softwood cuttings now. The tender new shoots of perennials and deciduous shrubs will root readily if you take cuttings now. Propagate your favourite plants to make more for free. Easy-rooters to start with include penstemon, lavender, Erysimum, fuchsia, and hydrangea. In the morning, while plants are still full of water, remove 10cm-long, non-flowering shoots, cutting just above a bud on the parent plant. Place the cuttings in a polythene bag straight away and keep them out of the sun to help them retain their water. Trim the cuttings, one by one, using a sharp knife. Cut just below a leaf joint and remove the lower leaves. Insert the cuttings, base first, around the edge of a pot of compost, with the first pair of leaves sitting just above compost level. Water and cover the pot with a polythene bag. Place it in the greenhouse or a warm spot out of direct sunlight for six to eight weeks. Keep the compost moist until the cuttings root. When roots have formed, pot individually and grow on. Enjoy your garden May is a busy time in the garden, but don't forget to enjoy it! Take time to appreciate the beauty around you, set up a comfortable seating area to relax, connect with others, and engage your senses. Remember, while it's important to work hard, it's equally important to take a few moments to enjoy the magic of your garden in May. Conclusion May is the perfect time to get your hands dirty and start prepping your garden for the summer. We've listed our top 10 tips to help you create a beautiful and healthy garden. If you’d like more advice, make sure to check out the other articles on our gardening blog.

Our top 10 gardening tips for April

Now that we are well and truly into spring, April is perhaps one of the most exciting months of the gardening year. Plants and flowerbeds begin to look green and vibrant. Also, the clocks moved forward on the last Sunday of March, so there’s plenty more sunshine in the day to tempt you out into your garden! Having said this, the weather in April can be famously temperamental. In just one day you can have beautiful sunshine in the morning and then significant rain in the afternoon – and then it’ll all have cleared up again by dinner time! But as the old saying goes, April showers bring May flowers. Whether you're a seasoned pro or a novice green-thumbed enthusiast, there's always something new to learn about gardening. In this blog post, we're sharing our top 10 gardening tips for April to help you make the most of this beautiful month. There are two ways to approach reading this blog: You can either start at the beginning and work your way down to the end, or you can click on the section in the list below that most appeals to you and you'll be directed to it immediately. Cut back lavender Plant hedging plants and trees Plant strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries Sow annual climbers Plant an alpine trough Start mowing your lawn every week Give your borders a tidy up Sow annual grasses Buy bedding plants as plugs Plant summer-flowering bulbs Cut back lavender At the start of spring, prune the tips of all lavender shoots with secateurs or shears. Once your lavender plants reach the size you desire, it's recommended that you trim them. Neglecting to prune them can result in sparse growth at the centre of the shrub, making the plant look unsightly overall. Additionally, older wood pruning is not preferred by lavender plants. Therefore, it's best to trim them annually in the springtime to maintain their bushy and compact appearance. Plant hedging plants and trees Planting new hedging plants and trees can be a great way to add colour and interest to your garden. And you’re in luck as spring is the best time for planting them! It's when the soil is warm enough for their roots to establish. Choose a sunny spot so that they can grow quickly in warm weather and flower at their best. Evergreen hedging plants This is the perfect time of the year for planting evergreen plants, including both conifers and various broad-leaved plants that make excellent hedges. These plants can be pruned into shapes or left to grow naturally and trimmed only when they become too large. By planting evergreens during this time, they are less likely to be harmed by cold winter winds. However, strong winds can also cause damage during spring and summer, as they can draw water from the leaves more quickly than the plant can replenish it from the dry soil. If this occurs frequently, it may be necessary to install more windbreaks or screens to shield your garden or consider replacing the damaged plants with ones that are more tolerant of wind and drought. Container-grown trained fruit trees It's too late to plant bare-root fruit trees and bushes in April, but there are still many container-grown options available, including different varieties trained in attractive shapes. Container-grown plants have the advantage of being plantable any time of year since their root systems aren't disturbed. They can even be purchased in flower and may produce some fruit in the first year of planting, but it's best not to take too much fruit during this time. Instead, focus on letting the plants establish themselves now so that they can produce even better yields in the future. Plant strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries Spring is the ideal time to plant delicate fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries. It's important to get them into the ground as soon as possible after purchase. When planting, select a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and avoid planting them in containers or pots as they won't receive enough sunlight or water if kept indoors. For strawberries, it's essential to avoid planting them too deep in the soil; half an inch beneath the surface is sufficient. Additionally, don't plant them too close together, as this will result in competition for nutrients and water beneath the leaves, which can lead to disease problems when the fruit begins to grow on top of these leaves rather than inside each individual berry. This might seem complicated, but it's important to follow these guidelines for optimal growth and fruit production! Use fertiliser to give your roses and trees a boost It's recommended to fertilize roses with a high-potassium fertilizer, such as rose food or blood, fish, and bone, during early April. If you're unsure which brand to use, seek advice from your local garden centre or nursery to find the most suitable product for your area. Follow instructions carefully when using chemical products, wear gloves when handling them, and keep them out of reach of children. For fruit trees, it's important to feed them with a suitable fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer in spring when buds start to appear, but before they open. Doing so allows the tree to absorb the nutrients before producing leaves that may block sunlight from new growth. It's also important to avoid damaging the roots by applying the fertilizer in a manner that minimizes the risk of root burn. Sow annual climbers Although we love sweet peas, we also love seeing some variety when it comes to annual climbers! Try something different on garden trellises and obelisks this summer by sowing an alternative fast-growing annual climber. Apart from sweet peas, other climbing plants grown from seed each year are often overlooked. However, there are many other climbing plants with exciting features, such as colourful foliage or beautiful flowers, which you can grow. The best part is that they can be changed every year, making it a fun and creative experiment. Most of these plants are half-hardy, and it's best to sow them in late March or April in the warmth of a propagator or on a windowsill. Once they have germinated and been potted, the young plants can be taken outside at the end of May, after the risk of frost has passed. Cobaea scandens, also known as the cup and saucer vine, has trumpet-shaped, purple flowers that sit in a green sepal 'saucer' and blooms from late summer to the first frost. It looks great on a rusted metal arch, especially when planted alongside its white version, Alba. If you love fiery colours, Ipomea lobata or Spanish flag, with its red, yellow, and white flowers, is perfect for you. You can try growing it on obelisks in a hot border or let it rampage through bright pink dahlias, similar to what is done at Great Dixter. Rhodochiton atrosanguineus has interesting flowers, a maroon-purple bell with an almost black 'clapper' hanging from the center. It pairs beautifully with the peach-toned flowers of Thunbergia alata 'African Sunset.' Plant an alpine trough Alpine plants that bloom in spring are varied, vibrant, and charming. It is unlikely that you will have a proper place in your garden to grow alpine plants in the ground – unless of course your soil is incredibly well-draining or you have a dedicated rockery. A better idea is to plant them in a dedicated trough or container, where they can receive the freely-draining soil they require, allowing you to appreciate these detailed plants up close. You will need An assortment of pretty alpines; choose plants that flower at different times for a show throughout the year A shallow trough or container ‘Alpine mix’ gritty compost Broken pots and coarse gravel Method Step 1 Purchase or repurpose a visually appealing container, such as a stone trough or an antique butler sink, for your plants. Any type of container can be used, as long as it is shallow and has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to ensure proper water drainage. Step 2 To promote proper drainage, put a layer of coarse gravel followed by pieces of broken pots at the bottom of the container. Step 3 Prior to planting your alpines in the container, spread a layer of alpine compost with a gritty texture over the coarse gravel layer. Next, arrange your plants in the container, filling in the gaps with more compost mix, and finally water them in. Step 4 Complete the process by applying a layer of small pebbles or grit around the alpines. This will enhance their appearance, prevent the growth of weeds and safeguard the plant bases against heavy rainfall. Start mowing your lawn every week As the temperature rises and the grass starts growing, it's important to start mowing your lawn regularly again. If left too long, it can become much harder to cut back. Keeping the blades of your mower set high to start with is a good idea. For some gardeners, mowing the lawn is just another chore, while for others it's a satisfying task that enhances the beauty of the garden. A well-manicured lawn with light and dark stripes and neatly trimmed edges is a wonderful addition to any garden. To maintain a healthy lawn, it's best to keep the grass at a length of 30-40mm, allowing it to stay smart and resist periods of drought. Leaving some parts of the lawn unmown from late spring can help attract insects and create a decorative effect. Expect to mow once a week when the grass is growing strongly. Give borders a tidy up Although not the most fun of tasks, giving your borders a tidy will make a big difference to how your garden looks. Allocate a day to attend to the minor tasks in your garden, which can have a significant impact on its overall appearance. Use a garden fork to loosen the soil and remove any weeds. Trim any plants that are overcrowding or growing over others to maintain their neatness, but be careful not to cut off any blooms that may appear this year. Also, make sure to install plant supports while you work to give a helping hands to plants that are struggling. Sow annual grasses Sowing annual grasses can add delicate foliage and attractive seedheads to your borders, providing a naturalistic look. Briza maxima, Lagurus ovatus, and Hordeum jubatum are popular annual grasses that can be sown directly into the soil or in drills. To prevent confusion with weed grasses, sow them in drills and label them accordingly. Scratch shallow drills in the soil with a stick and water them if they seem dry. After covering the seeds lightly, thin out the young seedlings and transplant them among your plants when they are big enough. You can even dry the seedheads and use them in flower arrangements. Buy bedding plants as plugs To avoid the hassle of sowing seeds early on and taking care of them until they are ready to be planted out, many people now prefer buying bedding plants as plugs, which are becoming increasingly popular. This method is especially convenient for those who have space under glass to bring on the young plants, and it eliminates the time-consuming process of seed germination. Furthermore, buying young plants is easier than sowing difficult seeds like busy Lizzie. Most bedding plants are available in small modular trays, with one plant per cell. When the young plants arrive, they can be potted up into 9cm pots with peat-free compost and grown on in a cool greenhouse or conservatory, without too much heat. Towards the end of the month, plant up hanging baskets, allowing the plants to fill out before they are put outside in early June, after the threat of frost has passed. Plant summer-flowering bulbs Summer-flowering bulbs should ideally be planted in April, as this gives them time to establish themselves before the warm summer weather arrives. Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil for your bulbs. If your soil is heavy or tends to hold water, you can improve drainage by adding some grit or sand to the soil before planting. When planting bulbs, make sure to dig a hole that is roughly three times the height of the bulb itself. Place the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing upwards, and cover it with soil. Space your bulbs out according to their planting depth and size. Generally, larger bulbs will need to be spaced further apart than smaller bulbs. Water your bulbs after planting, and keep the soil moist but not waterlogged until the bulbs have established. Once your bulbs have started growing, you may need to stake them to keep them upright. This is especially important for taller bulbs like gladioli. Many summer-flowering bulbs are not frost-hardy, so if you live in an area with late frosts, it's a good idea to protect your bulbs with a layer of mulch or horticultural fleece. To prolong the flowering season of your bulbs, you can plant them in batches over a few weeks, rather than all at once. After your bulbs have finished flowering, allow the foliage to die back naturally before removing it. This allows the bulb to store up energy for next year's growth. Some summer-flowering bulbs, like dahlias, can be lifted and stored over winter to protect them from frost damage. If you plan to do this, wait until the foliage has died back completely before lifting the bulbs, and store them in a cool, dry place. Conclusion So there you have it, our top 10 gardening tips for April. We hope they've inspired you to get out there and get planting! If you want more advice on how to get started with your own garden or just want some inspiration, check out our blog where we post regular articles on all things green-fingered.

Grow your own: The beginner's guide to growing your own vegetables

There’s nothing quite like eating vegetables that were grown in your own garden. To know that you’re cooking for and sustaining your family with food that you’ve produced yourself is an amazing feeling. However, when you’re new to it all, it can be difficult to know where to begin. Is it okay to start with seedlings instead of seeds? Should I grow my veggies inside or outside? What can I get my hands on to help? It can all feel a bit overwhelming. In this article, we’ll fill you in on what you need to know to get started. Specifically, we’ll go over why you should grow your own vegetables, focusing on how doing so can save you money; answer some basic questions surrounding how to get started; and then tell you about some items that will be a big help. We hope that you find this guide useful and enjoy growing your own vegetables! Contents Section one: Why you should grow your own Why should you grow your own vegetables? Can growing your own food save you money? Section two: The basics of growing your own What equipment do you need to grow your own vegetables? Should you choose seeds or seedlings? Should you grow vegetables inside or outside? How do you prepare soil to grow vegetables? Section three: Make growing your own easier How can raised beds help you? How can grow bags help you? How can plant halos help you? How can seed disks help you? Conclusion Section one: Why you should grow your own Why should you grow your own vegetables? There are many reasons to grow your own vegetables. To begin with, it’s a great hobby. Not only is it fulfilling, but it can also be a meditative and, quite literally, rewarding process. On top of this, you’ll be able to harvest your food when it’s at its peak ripeness. This way you get all their optimum nutrients and flavour. Also, you don’t have to worry about your veggies going bad before they reach your plate – or compost bin! Furthermore, you will know exactly what is in your food and can pick the best varieties for the season, so there will be no pesticides or chemicals used on them. And you will have more control over other variables, such as how big they grow. Another reason you should grow your own vegetables is that doing so can potentially save you money. Although, this point deserves its own section! Can growing your own food save you money? In short, growing your own vegetables can save you money… but there are a lot of factors to consider. Specifically, you need to think about: The upfront costs – If you’re going to be taking growing your own seriously, you’ll want to invest in decent tools, seeds, and potentially other helpful items like raised beds and grow bags (more on those later!). Also, there can be recurring costs, such as shop-bought soil and composts. This is all great, aside from when – and forgive us getting a bit business-like here – it negatively impacts your bottom line. So, you must factor in these costs if your main goal for growing your own is saving money. How much you like to eat your favourite vegetables – If your main goal is to save money, you’re going to have to eat a lot of the vegetables you grow! Hopefully you’re not a masochist who would consider growing foods they hate to eat; but it’s definitely something to consider. How much do you really like broccoli? Ease of storing and preserving – Although some crops like potatoes and garlic are easy to grow, they’re also relatively cheap to buy fully grown from the shops. If you want to be saving money, you should focus on growing vegetables that are pricey to buy fully grown. How easy to store and preserve the vegetables you choose are – If you’re not going to be eating all your harvest in one go, you’re going to want to make sure it stores well or can be cooked into a recipe that can be. The following vegetables will keep for months in a cool, dry place: Dry beans, pumpkins, shallots, sweet potatoes, and winter squash. The amount of space you have to grow in – To produce enough of any vegetable to beat the supermarkets’ prices, you’re going to have to grow a lot – which takes up a great deal of space. Although you can gain an advantage with grow bags (again, more on these later!), it’s worth considering if the space eaten up is worth the money you might save. If you can balance the above factors, it is possible to save money growing your own food. Although, it is going to be a process of trial and error – and you’re unlikely to be making significant savings unless you have acres of space and time to devote to doing so. Our top four picks for money-saving vegetables Kale Kale is nutritious, low in calories, and suitable for a wide range of dishes. A packet of seeds only costs £1, and it grows quickly in just six weeks. Compare this to the price in shops, and you can see how you’ll be saving money! Also, kale is a versatile plant that is easy to grow. It is extremely hardy, can grow in a variety of climates, and can be picked at numerous stages of its growing process. Tomatoes Tomatoes are a perfect plant for little gardens or even balconies because they don’t need much area to thrive. It takes 12 weeks for tomato plants to mature and be ready for harvest. Furthermore, the plant can continue to produce fresh tomatoes every day for up to six years after this rather rapid growth period. On the basis of consumers purchasing one box of tomatoes each week, this implies you can save £52 a year. Lettuce Five months’ supply of lettuce can be obtained from one seed package. You’ll save on average about £40 a year compared to grocery store prices. Lettuce can be started inside for transplanting or directly sown in your garden plot. One of the few crops that may be cultivated year-round in the UK, it should be sheltered and harvested at reduced sizes during hotter months. Broccoli It takes broccoli eight to twelve weeks to mature and become suitable for harvest. You will save money and receive two pounds of broccoli from each plant. Because of its nutrient content and adaptability in the kitchen, broccoli is one of the most popular vegetables on the planet. It can be steamed and used as a side dish, as well as added to anything from salads to curries. Section two: The basics of growing your own What equipment do you need to grow your own vegetables? You will need a selection of gardening tools to start your vegetable gardening journey. A spade, fork, and, hoe are all essential for preparing soil. Gloves are also important; they protect your hands from cuts and blisters, as well as the transfer of disease. You also need to consider where you’re going to be planting your vegetables. You can plant a specific vegetable patch straight into the ground (although we’d recommend a raised bed) or grow in patio pots, window boxes, or even on the windowsill of your kitchen. Should you choose seeds or seedlings? Starting your garden from little plants you buy – referred to as “transplants” or “seedlings” – instead of seeds is perfectly okay. Lots of people do it! Doing so can let you start growing delicate veggies early, including tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, which need a long, warm growth season. However, we would say that seeds are the way to go – particularly if you’re looking to save a bit of money. Firstly, particularly when purchased in larger numbers, seeds are significantly less expensive than seedlings. For example, six kale plants can cost around £3 if you get them as seedlings; but for this amount of money, you could get 300 to 400 seeds. Furthermore, seeds last for years before being planted. Secondly, compared to the normally limited selection of seedlings in a nursery, seeds provide significantly more variety. Thirdly, some veggies do not transfer well from one environment to another. Beginning from seed enables you to plant directly into the ground, allowing you to grow crops like corn, melons, squash, beans, and peas that do not thrive when moved from one location to another. And, finally, by starting plants from seed, you can guarantee their strength and health from the very beginning. Should you grow vegetables inside or outside? Everyone loves a definitive answer. But in this case, the answer is: It depends. However, here’s a simple piece of advice that you can depend on: Always refer to your seeds’ instructions; they will be included on the packet. You can’t go wrong this way. Some veggies, particularly in the British climate, will prefer to be inside, others outside, and, to make things even more confusing, some will prefer to start inside and then be planted outside. Having said this, there are advantages to growing inside; particularly if the inside you’re thinking of is a greenhouse. Growing plants in a greenhouse provides the following advantages: You don’t have to worry about weather conditions outside. You can keep them warm and protected from windy days (which would dry out their leaves) or cold nights (which would damage their roots). You can more easily set up artificial lights. If you decide to plant outside, you’ll need to choose a spot in your garden where you want to grow vegetables. It should be sunny and warm – but not too hot (ideally 18-22 degrees). If the temperature drops below freezing at night, it could damage your plants or even kill them completely if they’re young seedlings. To make things easier, we’d suggest investing in raised beds – but more on those later! How do you prepare soil to grow vegetables? Your soil is the foundation for your garden and your vegetable growing endeavours. It provides nutrients and water for your plants, so it’s important to prepare it properly before planting. You’ll need to consider the type of soil in your garden, as well as the climate in which you are growing. For example, if you have heavy clay soil, it may be more difficult for vegetables to grow and they may get root rot when too much water is used. On the other hand, if you have sandy loam or sandier soils (like those found in dry areas), then drainage can be a problem as well. In general, loamy soils are best for growing vegetables because they’re good at retaining nutrients but also allow water through easily enough that plants don’t suffer from drought stress or overwatering injuries caused by excess moisture around their roots. Other things to consider are: Soil pH: The first thing you’ll want to do is test your soil pH level so that you know what adjustments need to be made. A balanced pH level will help prevent diseases in your plants and make them more resistant against pests. Soil pH levels are a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of your soil. The number indicates how many hydrogen ions there are in a given amount of soil. A reading below 7 is considered acidic, and a reading above 7 is considered alkaline. In general, plants grow best in soils with a pH around 6.5 to 7.0, which is considered neutral. Soil structure: If there are large clumps or chunks of dirt in your garden bed, break them apart with a trowel or hoe before planting anything else in there! This will ensure that all of those little spaces between clumps are filled up with good stuff like organic matter (aka compost). Soil fertility: Next up is adding fertilizer – but don’t overdo it! Too much fertilizer can actually cause more problems than they solve because they disrupt the natural balance between nutrients held by living organisms such as microbes versus those contained within rocks/soils themselves. Section three: Make growing your own easier You can get your hands on a number of items to help you start your vegetable growing journey. Below we will discuss raised beds, grow bags, plant halos, and seed disks. How can raised beds help you? A raised bed, otherwise known as a grow bed, is any gardener’s best friend. As their name suggests, a raised bed is a bed for plants to grow in that is higher than the ground it sits upon. Pictured above are our wooden raised beds. Here are just some of the benefits that they offer: Allow you to separate different soil types – Plants vary in what type of soil they need to flourish. Setting up separate raised beds means you can easily separate these different soil types. Increase accessibility – Depending how high you place them, grow beds can minimise the amount you’ll need to stoop or bend over. This can help gardeners with mobility issues gain access. Extend your growing season – Soil in raised beds heats and drains more quickly in the spring than in-ground beds, giving gardeners a few more weeks of growth. Remove foot traffic – Soil remains loose and aerated because it is not being compacted by the trample of feet. Anywhere is a good place to garden – With the help of grow beds, you can grow your vegetables pretty much anywhere! You can grow on top of over clay soils, in front of unsightly buildings, and so on. Easier to protect your plants – Covers and cloches are relatively simple to place on a raised bed and offer excellent weather and pest protection for your plants. Enhanced maintenance simplicity – Raised beds offer a larger soil capacity than containers, making watering easier. Pictured above is our grow bed along with a pop-up cloche for protection. How can grow bags help you? Grow bags are exactly what they sound like: Bags used to grow plants and vegetables. Tomatoes, potatoes, salad greens, herbs, peppers, and other similar foods that don’t have deep roots do well in grow bags. The general rule is that you can grow anything in a grow bag that you can grow in a container. Also, if you don’t have an in-ground garden, grow bags are the ideal answer. They look great lined up in a raised garden bed for a more conventional appearance, but they’re also great for use on a porch or balcony. Further advantages of grow bags include: They are moveable and can be used on the patio or in the greenhouse No digging is required Can be used year after year Grow bags are available in different shapes and sizes for specific vegetables Grow bags are a simple and affordable way to increase your growing area When not in use, grow bags are simple to store – after thoroughly cleaning them with a strong spray, fold them up and allow them to air dry Grow bags, in contrast to conventional containers, let plant roots breathe. A happy plant has happy roots Pictured above is a selection of our grow bags for specific crops. How can plant halos help you? Plant halos make it easier to water and support grow bag plants like tomatoes, peppers, and beans. They can be used on pots, raised beds, and on traditional vegetable plots. The central inner pot creates the planting area which is particularly useful when used with grow bags as it allows a deeper planting zone to develop healthier plants. A moat and watering spikes that penetrate below the surface will deliver water direct to the plant’s roots. This ensures that water and liquid feed are delivered at a reduced rate that the plant is better able to absorb, preventing wastage which is common with conventional watering. Pictured above are our tomato plant halos. How can seed disks help you? If you’re looking for the easiest option when it comes to growing vegetables from seed, seed disks are the way to go. A SeedCell is an easy to plant, biodegradable disk filled with seeds. Their manufacturer, Grow Sow Simple, believe that everyone should have the opportunity to experience the thrill of growing their own fresh herbs and vegetables, no matter their level of experience. It’s their goal to make gardening more accessible. All you need to do is push the cardboard pod into soil or compost and water well. The seeds inside are kept in ideal conditions away from pests and predators and are much less likely to dry out. The natural pulp material that makes up the SeedCell disks will absorb any ground moisture once planted. As you water your seeds, it will help deliver a steady feed directly to the seed without the worry of over watering. This will then aid the germination process and continuing to provide vital water to the newly emerging seedlings beneath the soil. As the seeds grow, the pod breaks down into the soil and encourages healthy plant growth. Pictured above are our SeedCell grow your own seed pods. Conclusion Learning how to grow your own vegetables is a great way to get your hands dirty, save money, and eat healthier. The best part is that it’s really easy once you know what you’re doing! Just follow the tips above, and you’ll be growing your own vegetables in no time.

Our top 10 gardening tips for March

Spring is finally here! Well, it will be on 20th March. We love spring. It’s when our gardens start to come alive after the long and dreary winter. As well as the weather improving (touch wood!), the clocks go forward as well – so there’s more time for gardening. However, despite these improvements on previous months, it can still be a bit tricky weather-wise. The weather can be fickle, with one day having clear blue skies and others wintry showers. Don’t let that get you down though. Instead, let the coming of spring colours give you encouragement to make your garden a perfect place for the warmer months! To help you get started, we’ve put together our top 10 gardening tips for March. You can either read our blog from top to bottom or click on the handy links below to be taken straight to the tips you’re interested in. Whichever way you decide to take in the information, we hope that you find it useful! Tidy and mulch your borders to minimise weeds Protect your plants from slugs and snails Plant summer flowering bulbs If you live in the south of the UK, sow and plant sweet peas Look after your lawn Prepare vegetable and herb seedbeds for direct sowing Keep an eye on your greenhouse Shade young seedlings in your greenhouse on sunny days Plant hellebores and heucheras in containers Protect against frost 1. Tidy and mulch your borders to minimise weeds If we had to name one undisputable gardening truth, it would be this: Everyone hates weeds. Also, following on from this, weeding is a chore that no one looks forward to – unless they’re masochists. To cut down the time you spend on weeding, it’s a good idea to tidy your borders and beds, then mulch them with a thick layer of organic matter. Mulching will keep the soil warm and moist, helping to keep weeds at bay. It also helps with drainage, keeping your plants healthy by allowing water to reach their roots – but preventing it from getting trapped in puddles on top of the ground. Let’s begin with tidying. When you walk around your garden, keep an eye out for germinating weed seedlings and take them out with a hoe. Also, dig out any perennial weeds while they too are small, and they will be easier to control. If you need to protect your hands, make sure to check out our weeding gloves. The best time for applying a mulch is the start of spring while the soil is still moist; this way the moisture will not evaporate from the soil surface so rapidly. Water first if the weather has been dry. If a layer of mulch is applied to dry soil then it will make it difficult for water to penetrate the soil at all. Mulch bare soil with organic matter – standard garden compost will be fine. Soil in borders left bare will very quickly lose water in dry spells. Covering with a thick layer of organic matter will cut down the rate at which water evaporates from the soil, reducing the need to water. This is especially important for young trees, shrubs, and perennials that have been recently planted. Although, never put mulch on top of dry soil. If the soil is dry, water it first. A layer of compost is just as good at keeping water out as sealing it in! Also, make sure that any fresh material doesn't contain harmful chemicals or pesticides before using it on your plants. 2. Protect your plants from slugs and snails Slugs and snails can do a lot of damage to young buds before they’ve barely emerged from the soil. And you may not be aware of the damage until the leaves begin to open up. Tiny holes made in the plants by your slimy garden guests, at this stage only the size of pinheads, will expand as the plants grow. By the summer, these holes can be massive. One way to prevent slugs from getting to your (and their!) favourites is to use a physical barrier that the pests will not want to negotiate to get to the plants. The easiest barrier of all is a thick layer of coarse material like salt. You can also put down some slug pellets around the base of your plants, especially if they're young and vulnerable. Alternatively, try using potato peelings and egg shells as bait for molluscs; they'll be attracted by these food sources but won't be able to digest them properly because they lack the digestive enzymes needed for breaking down cellulose found in plant matter. 3. Plant summer flowering bulbs All summer-flowering bulbs, if planted at intervals of a period of a few weeks, will give a succession of flowers throughout the summer and into autumn. As a general rule of thumb, choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil, and dig your hole at the same depth as they were in their pots. Two of our favourite summer flowering bulbs are gladioli and lilies. Gladioli For the best effect in ornamental borders, plant gladiolus bulbs (or, more correctly, corms) in groups of five or more. Plant the corms 10-15cm (4-6 inches) apart and 7-10cm (3-4 inches) deep. The deeper the corms are planted, the less likely they’ll need stakes for support. On heavy clay, dig the hole a little deeper and place the corms on a layer of coarse frit. However, in northern parts of the country, wait until April to plant frost-tender bulbs such as gladioli. Lilies Lilies can be planted outside in well-prepared soil in groups in any mixed border. Plant the bulbs to three times their own depth and 7-10cm (3-4 inches) apart. On heavy clay soils, plant the bulbs on a layer of coarse grit to add drainage. Lilies don’t like to sit in damp soil! 4. If you live in the south of the UK, sow and plant sweet peas If you live in the south, sow and plant sweet peas now. They're a great way to brighten up your garden without much effort, and they'll grow well even if it's still cold out. If you don't have much space for plants, try growing sweet peas in pots on a balcony or patio instead. Plant them in a sunny spot with well-drained soil that has been enriched with compost or manure. The seeds should be planted about 1cm deep and then watered gently after planting them – you don't want to wash away the seedlings! There are many different ways of growing sweet peas and they have many uses in the garden. The easiest way to grow sweet peas is to sow them where they are to flower. Germination will be improved by soaking the seeds overnight to soften their coat. Plant two seeds at 30cm and 1cm deep. The plants may need a framework to grow around initially. If you don’t have any to hand, make sure to check out our wide range of plant supports. 5. Look after your lawn By this time in most parts of the country, grass will be growing steadily now and will need to be cut regularly to keep it in good condition. So, start mowing regularly. Although, remember that a lawn will be much healthier and stay greener the less grass you remove every time it is cut. For the first few cuts, set the blades at their highest setting. Even if you tend to leave the clippings on the lawn in summer, keep the box on the mower in spring, so that air, rain, and fertiliser can penetrate the turf. Feed your lawn towards the end of the month in southern part of the country. In the north (or generally if it’s a particularly cold March), wait until next month. The grass needs to be actively growing in order to make the best use of fertiliser. 6. Prepare vegetable and herb seedbeds for direct sowing Prepare your vegetable and herb seedbeds for direct sowing by raking the soil to remove stones, weeds, and other debris. Water the soil before sowing so that the seeds can germinate quickly when they are placed within damp earth. Even if it’s been left exposed, soil should be beginning to dry out now and will be in a better state for the making of good seedbeds for sowing. The soil doesn’t need to be so wet that it sticks to your boots, nor so dry that it takes a lot of effort to break it up, but hopefully nature has given a helping hand and broken down the worst of the clods. If the soil is rather too moist for treading on, then use planks. These will distribute your weight and prevent localised areas from becoming too compacted. Break larger lumps of soil down by bashing them with a garden fork, then use a rake to smooth out smaller lumps and create a fine tilth, pushing and pulling the rake back and forth to a depth of roughly 1.5cm. Tread the soil to firm it, and apply organic fertiliser, such as one based on seaweed, about two weeks before sowing. Rake that in – and the seedbed will be ready for the seed. 7. Keep an eye on your greenhouse It’s amazing how much dust and dirt can accumulate on glass, even in dry weather. Keep the windows of your greenhouse clean to give seedlings inside maximum light exposure. Long, thin, straggly seedlings rarely make good plants once they mature! Also, make sure to ventilate whenever the weather is good. Plants grow best when they are protected from the extremes of hot and cold – and ventilation is important in regulating a greenhouse’s temperature. 8. Shade young seedlings in your greenhouse on sunny days Plants lose water in the form of vapour from their leaves. This is known as transpiration. On sunny, warmer days, transpiration increases. Young seedlings and cuttings are less able to cope with this. So, it’s important to shade them on particularly sunny days. Although you can invest in expensive blinds for your conservatory, sticking up newspaper to block the brunt of the sun will work as well. 9. Plant hellebores and heucheras in containers If you're looking for some low-maintenance perennials that will thrive in containers, consider hellebores and heucheras. Hellebores and heucheras are reliable winter-into-spring container plants that make excellent partners. Both are hardy flowering plants that can be planted in shady areas of the garden or grown indoors as houseplants. They're also great for beginners because they require little maintenance once established. 10. Protect against frost March can sometimes still be a frosty time of year – especially at night. So, keep an eye on the weather forecast with the aim of protecting tender plants. Cloches, horticultural fleece, or even plastic bottles with their bottoms cut off will give protection from the frost. Also, take care to protect fruit blossoms and early fruitlets until there is no further threat of frost. The buds and flowers of peaches, nectarines, and cherries open up early in spring and are prone to frost damage. Conclusion We hope these tips will help you enjoy your garden in March. For more gardening tips and guides, make sure to check out our blog.

Our top 10 gardening tips for February

It feels like it’s been winter forever. But don’t worry – we’re getting there. Spring officially begins in late March, which makes February an exciting month of anticipation. There’s a noticeable increase in the length of the days and new green shoots are readying themselves to burst into bloom. So, just hold tight for a little longer. Weatherwise, February can be very cold, with frosts, rain, and even snow! It can actually be a colder month than January, but a few days of watery sunshine is all that it takes to tempt us outside. On the mildest days, you can get outside for some much-needed gardening. But if it’s just too cold to head outside, it’s still early enough in the year to plant for the summer! To give you a helping hand, we’ve compiled our top 10 gardening tips to keep you busy this February. You can either read this blog from top to bottom or click the tips that interest you the most below and you’ll be taken straight to them. Prune your non-spring blooming clematis Plant lilies in pots ready to be placed in the garden this summer Look after the birds Check your tools ahead of spring Plant bare-root trees and shrubs Plan for the summer Keep off your lawn when it’s frosty out Chit your potatoes Check your stored vegetables Cut back ornamental grasses 1. Prune your non-spring blooming clematis We love clematis – they’re the ultimate showy climber! But like all good things in life, you need to put in the work to see the best results. Many of these beauties need to be pruned in February to encourage their flowers and prevent a tangled mess of stems. Although, don’t dash out to the garden with your pruners in hand just yet! Knowing which group your garden’s clematis is part of is crucial. There are three groups differentiated by their blooming time: Group one: Spring bloomers Group two: Repeat bloomers Group three: Summer or autumn bloomers You should only prune groups two and three – and the manner in which you should do this differs. How to prune group two clematis The second group of clematis produce their flowers on short new shoots that grow from last year’s stems, so the aim here is to leave a framework of old stems in place. Step one: Take out any dead or weak growth completely. Step two: Track down each individual stem and prune it back by about one-third, cutting just above a healthy pair of buds. How to prune group three clematis The third group flowers on the current season’s growth, so they can be pruned hard. Do it now and you’ll leave them plenty of time to produce those new, flowering shoots. Cut all the stems back hard, making sure you: #1: Prune them to 15-45cm from the ground level. #2: Always cut just above a viable bulb. After pruning, feed with an organic fertiliser and mulch with organic matter, or put a large stone at the base of the plant. Clematis like their heads in the sun but their roots shaded and cool. 2. Plant lilies in pots ready to be placed in the garden this summer Lilies are one of our favourite flowers. They’re a bulbous perennial with erect stems that are grown for their fragrant and brightly coloured flowers. In short, they’re lovely. They are normally planted in autumn in borders and patio tubs, but if you didn’t manage to do it then, you can still have lilies in flower this summer. Even if the soil is too wet for planting outside you can pot up some lily bulbs and either move them or plant them out later in the spring. There should be plenty of lily bulbs in the garden centres to choose from now. Look for good, plump bulbs, avoiding those which have become shrivelled and dry in the sun. Plant three or four bulbs in an 18cm (7”) pot and keep them in a cool greenhouse or cold frame. Grow on inside, watering whenever the compost feels dry, to plant out later. 3. Look after the birds February can be a difficult time for our feathered friends! Make sure to provide them with plenty of water, food, and shelter. Not only will this keep them healthy during a trying time, but doing so will encourage them to visit your garden generally – and you can worry less about them nibbling on your buds and bulbs! First things first, bird fod is essential to attracting birds to your gardens. It’s important to use a variety of bird food as different species have various dietary requirements. You should also consider whether your favourite garden bird species can survive on the types of seeds or other goodies you’re offering them – some options may not provide enough nutrition for your favourite birds’ diets! So, if you’re looking to attract a certain type of bird, make sure to check what their favourite meal is. If possible, also provide a bird table or two. These are elevated platforms that allow birds to perch and eat seeds or insects without having to crouch on the ground. They're especially useful in winter when snow or heavy rain may cover their usual feeding areas and make them hard for small birds to reach. Once you’ve sorted out food and made your gardening a welcoming place for the birds, it’s time to think about a bird house. A bird house is a structure created by humans that serves as a place for birds to nest. Elsewhere you will find them referred to as a bird nesting box, a bird box, or by the singular word birdhouse. Whatever you call them, they are a fantastic method to bring and keep birds in your garden. Although the busiest time for bird nesting is March to July, it’s worth getting ahead of things. Birds need a little time to get used to new boxes before they will select them to nest in. Although, it should noted that only certain types of birds – notably members of the tit family, sparrows, nuthatches, robins, woodpeckers, and wrens – use them. Furthermore, bird house are designed with apertures of different sizes for specific species of bird. For example, we sell a wren bird house, robin bird house, and a blue tit bird house. 4. Check your tools ahead of spring It's a good idea to check your tools and machines ahead of spring. This is especially true if you haven't used them for a while, or if they've been stored in an area where they could be exposed to the elements. Once the busy gardening season really gets underway, it’s maddening to go to the shed and only then remember that your favourite spade has a broken handle – just when you need to get on with digging or planting a newly bought plant! Check for rust on metal tools, as well as corrosion on any plastic parts that might be affected by water or moisture. Also keep an eye out for cracks or breaks in wood handles and heads, missing screws and bolts, and loose fastenings. If any of these problems are present then either repair them yourself or replace the tool altogether! Make sure to check out our range of gardening tools if you need to restock your garden shed. 5. Plant bare-root trees and shrubs Bare-root trees and shrubs, including roses, can be planted at any time during the dormant season from November to March, but recent research has shown that February can be the ideal time. Provided that the soil is not actually frozen, or so wet that it sticks to your boots, plants that you put in this month will get off to a really good start. The main reason is that plants are not stuck in cold, wet soil all winter, when new roots will not grow much at all, especially so soon after they have been lifted from the nursery. By planting during this month, it is not long before the soil begins to warm up and those new roots will get growing, quickly establishing the plant. Remember to look after new plants well and water them thoroughly during any dry spells, especially as they are getting established in their first year. To plant bare root plants: Dig holes that are wide enough to accommodate the root ball and deep enough to allow ample depth for roots to spread out freely once planted; water well before placing into ground; gently tamp soil around base of plant being careful not too compact soil around base of each plant. 6. Plan for the summer Time spent now planning what plants and how many to grow in containers is well spent. It’s fun browsing through seed catalogues, dreaming up plant and colour combinations. It’s all a matter of personal choice and deciding which plants will suit a particular situation, for example, sunny or shady positions. If you have space, grow the plants from seed or if you haven’t the time for this, all the seed companies sell young plants as well, and if you can bring these on undercover you get a much wider choice by buying early. 7. Keep off your lawn when it’s frosty out Keep off the grass when it’s frozen or frosted. Otherwise, when it thaws out, your footprints will show up as yellow patches on the lawn where the grass has been damaged. 8. Chit your potatoes Chitting is simply the process of sprouting potatoes before planting them; this helps them grow faster once they've been put in the ground and can increase their yield by about 50%. You can do this indoors by placing your potatoes in trays with moistened soil and covering them loosely with plastic wrap until shoots emerge (usually within five to ten days). Once they have sprouted at least half an inch high above soil level, remove the plastic wrap and allow the plants another week until they reach three to four inches tall. After this, move them into larger containers or directly into garden beds outside (if weather permits). 9. Check your stored vegetables If you're storing vegetables, it's important to check them regularly. This can be done by looking out for the following issues. Pests and diseases Look for signs of insect damage (e.g., holes or discolouration), mould growth, wilting leaves and stunted growth. If you see any of these things, throw out the affected food immediately! Rot If you find soft spots in your veggies (or even worse – if they've started to liquefy!), they'll need to go too. Dehydration This happens when moisture evaporates from produce faster than it can be replaced by keeping them in airtight containers or sealed bags with minimal air circulation around them; this causes flaking on top surfaces which makes it look like something has been nibbling away at them overnight, but actually just represents water loss due to poor storage conditions rather than actual pests eating away at your precious harvest. 10. Cut back ornamental grasses Your ornamental grasses should be cut now. Trimming them will make them more appealing, and it's a very easy procedure. If the grass is tall, a lawn mower can be used to trim it down to about two feet in height. For shorter varieties, use hand pruners or loppers instead – just make sure that they're sharp! In order to avoid tearing up the plants when cutting them back, you should also make sure that your mower blade is kept sharp. A dull blade will create jagged edges where fragments of leaves may later fall off and become brown from exposure to air pollution or sunshine. Conclusion We hope you've found these tips helpful and we wish you a happy, healthy, and productive gardening season!

Our top 10 gardening tips for January

Start your new year right with our top 10 gardening tips for January. It might feel like there’s little that can be done in the garden when the new year rolls around. You look out of your window and all you can see is rain, bare branches being blown about, and, on particularly cold days, the dreaded frost. However, if you think your garden is a barren and boring place with nothing to do this time of year, let us set you back on the right path. Despite the potentially unfavourable weather, there are still plenty of plants for you to admire and tasks to complete. The few plants that do dare to blossom in January are truly beautiful, and without the distraction of other blooms, now is the perfect time to appreciate the outlines of bare branches, the fascinating hues and textures of bark, and the reassuringly solid shapes of evergreens. Don’t think of January as a dark, cold month. Think of it as a month of optimism. It’s the start of a new year, and you should get everything in place to make it look its best for when spring arrives. To help get you started, we've collated our top 10 gardening tips for January. You can read this blog from top to bottom, or you can click the tip that most interests you from the list below to go there immediately. Have fun – and happy new year! Recycle your Christmas tree Improve your soil Plant winter aconites Get everything tidy and organised Keep your greenhouse in check Plant lilies in pots in your greenhouse Plant new fruit trees Plant garlic Buy onion sets Look after your lawn 1. Recycle your Christmas tree We know, we know. We wish it was still Christmas, too. However, the joy of your tree doesn’t have to end when you take the decorations down! If you want to put your tree's needles to good use, turn them into mulch for the garden. Just take its branches and shake off the dead needles outside, placing them in a pile. They will decompose slowly into a nutritious mulch. You can use some of the larger pieces of wood from the tree as firewood. Although, shredded bark can also be used as mulch. If you don't have access to a shredder, you can chop the tree up with secateurs – sawing the trunk into short sections will help. Not only does this greatly speed up their decomposition, but it makes a brilliant addition to your compost heap. If this seems a bit much for you, check your local council’s website to learn about any recycling programmes they may have. Remember to lay down protective plastic sheeting in the car if you're driving the tree to a recycling facility; otherwise, you'll still be sweeping up needles the following Christmas. If this all seems a bit too much, you can also consider getting an artificial Christmas tree for next year! 2. Improve your soil Extend the “new year, new me” promise to your soil! Just make sure you match the improvements to the specific types of soil in your garden. Also, make sure you have all the gardening tools you need to get the job done ahead of time! For clay soil To increase drainage, add large amounts of bulky organic waste, such as garden compost, and grit or coarse sand. Only work on clay soil if it’s been dry. Otherwise, it will become a sticky mess! For sandy soil Dig in plenty of organic matter to aid water retention. For chalky soil Add organic matter to increase the soil depth, aid water retention, and improve the nutrient content. For shallow soil Building raised beds allows for greater planting depth in areas with very shallow soil. Fill them with a blend of topsoil of high quality, compost, and manure. Each year's addition of organic matter will gradually increase soil depth. 3. Plant winter aconites One of the first bulbs to bloom each year is the winter aconite. Once planted, they have a gorgeous appearance and spread to create carpets of bright yellow flowers. The best time to purchase fresh plants is right now, while they are actively growing, as they have a higher chance of success than dry bulbs put at other periods of the year. If you're planting them near patios or other types of hard paving, make sure it's well drained as they dislike standing water around their roots. If you are planting winter aconites into pots or containers, then choose something at least 18 inches (45cm) high so there is plenty of room for your plants to spread out as they grow. 4. Get everything tidy and organised Get your garden ready for the rest of the year. Every garden will be different, but here’s a quick checklist to get you started: Sort through the trash that has accumulated in your shed and throw it away. To ensure that everything is in working order when you need it in the spring, clean and oil your tools. Sharpening blades on tools such as secateurs and hoes makes all the difference in how easy they are to use. Clean seed trays and flowerpots. Make sure to use warm water, otherwise, the task may be chilly and unpleasant! It’s also worth cleaning plant labels. A quick rub with a scouring cloth will remove old writing and saves you the cost of buying new label. 5. Keep your greenhouse in check Pick up any dropped flowers or leaves. Additionally, get rid of any dead plant materials you find because keeping them around might cause fungus and grey mould, which rots plants. Check for damage on plants that are dormant. Examine any sensitive plants you are overwintering inside and get rid of any sick growth right away to prevent it from rotting. Check for leaks. Examine the structure for any cracks or holes that might let in moisture or pests. Make sure there's no condensation on your roof, either; if there is, it could be a sign of a problem with heat retention within your greenhouse itself. 6. Plant lilies in pots in your greenhouse Plant some lily bulbs in substantial pots now to enjoy in the summer. When they are ready to flower, use them to fill in the gaps in the border after growing them in the greenhouse. For summer blooms, you can alternatively plant them right into the border in February. Lilies are quite delicate so keeping them warm and sheltered will help them thrive. Give them high-quality soil, pots with drainage holes, and a depth of at least 10cm. 7. Plant new fruit trees Make sure the soil isn’t frozen or wet before planting. Add lots of well-rotted manure or garden compost to the planting holes. If the weather is poor when your trees arrive, pot them up or wrap the dampened root ball and store them in a cold but frost-free shed. To protect newly planted trees and shrubs, especially evergreens, from wind damage, erect a windbreak to shelter the plant. The windbreak can be in the form of hessian, horticultural fleece, bubble plastic or strong polythene, tied securely to a framework around the plants. 8. Plant garlic A garlic bulb should break into 10-12 cloves for planting. Plant these 15cm apart and each one will produce a bulb that will store until the following spring. Bury the tip to prevent birds pulling them out again. If the cloves push out of the ground as they grow, simply use a trowel to plant them deeper. Plant each clove about two inches below the surface of the soil so that its tip sticks out above ground level (about one inch). You don't want them too deep or they won't grow properly! Once you've planted all of your cloves and watered them thoroughly, cover them with mulch such as leaves or straw to protect against frost damage while they're dormant during wintertime; this will also keep moisture levels consistent throughout dry months ahead when plants are going through active growth periods instead. 9. Buy onion sets Growing onions from sets is a far less fiddly way to raise onions than sowing seed. Look out for the small bulbs in garden centres now. Choose ones that are firm to the touch and store them in a dry place, ready for planting in March. ‘Red Baron’ is a good red variety, and ‘Selton’ and ‘Jet Set’ produce solid brown onions that store well. 10. Look after your lawn Our increasingly unpredictable climate means we can get mild periods of weather even in the depths of winter. Grass is quick to respond to the mildness and puts on lush growth. If the ground isn’t wet or frozen, it’s a good idea to cut the grass, no matter how early in the year. It’ll keep your lawn looking tidy and avoids the grass from getting long and difficult to cut. Keep off icy grass. Don’t walk or work on the grass when it’s frozen or frosted, otherwise, when it thaws out, your footprints will show up as yellow patches. If you mow your lawn, don’t leave grass cuttings lying around – it’s too cold and damp to allow decomposition. Collect cuttings and add them to the compost heap or put them in your green waste bin if your council provides one. A quick way to improve the appearance of your lawn is to redefine its edges using a half-moon edging tool or a spade. Compost the trimmings. Conclusion We hope you’ve enjoyed our gardening tips for January! We’ll see you this time next month for our February gardening tips.

Our top 10 gardening tips for December

As the famous song goes, the weather outside is frightful, but the fire is so delightful. If the cold weather hasn’t tipped you off, winter is very close. Specifically, it begins on 21st December. When it gets frostier, it can be hard to motivate yourself to get out in the garden. The allure of the fireside armchair is very strong. However, when it isn’t wet and the sun comes out, it can be quite pleasant. Even the sun goes down quickly, there are a lot of gorgeous clear and sunny days. Just make sure to wrap up properly! Now is the time to follow through with any repairs and maintenance that you’ve been putting off, pruning and preparing your plants for the winter, and, of course, getting ready for the big day at the end of the month! To give you a helping hand, we’ve compiled our top 10 gardening tips to keep you busy this December. You can either read this blog from top to bottom or click the tip that interests you the most below and you’ll be taken straight there. Choose and prepare your Christmas tree Check stored vegetables Add some extra colour to your garden And bring the colour inside as well Get some armchair gardening done Protect plants that are vulnerable to frost Keep on top of pruning Wrap insulation around outside taps Look after your lawn Give your houseplants some extra attention 1. Choose and prepare your Christmas tree Are you a natural or artificial Christmas tree person? Although we love the tradition of getting a real Christmas tree, we also love the ease and timesaving an artificial option provides. Either decision is a good one in our books. What’s best for you depends on your needs and wants. If you buy a real tree, it should last three to five weeks with a good supply of water and proper care. As soon as you get your tree home, saw 3cm off the bottom of the trunk and place it in water. You can put it in a bucket outside if you’re not ready to bring it in just yet, or the stand itself if you’re ready. You need to do this to make sure sap doesn’t form, dry, and stop the tree from taking in water. Although they don’t have roots, Christmas trees will drink more than half a litre of water a day – so always keep their stands topped up! If you go down the artificial route, you don’t have to worry as much about preparation and the dreaded sap. You can even get a pre-lit artificial Christmas tree if you want to save time on decorating! Although, there are still some tricks to make your tree look as good as possible. We’d recommend leaving your tree to stand undecorated for a night once you’ve put it up. This will make it easier to arrange the branches to make it look fuller – otherwise known as “fluffing”. Take care to disperse each branch evenly when fluffing. This will guarantee that you have the beautiful, full look we all want. We suggest starting to pull out and fluff the branches at the bottom and working your way up to make sure you don't miss any that are tucked away. If you’d like to read more about Christmas trees, we have a blog about whether you should buy an artificial Christmas tree and one about how to keep your real Christmas tree alive and looking good for as long as possible. 2. Check stored vegetables Regularly check stored strings of onions and garlic for signs of rot or sprouting. If you find any such signs, discard the vegetables straight away. Check your stored potatoes as well, particularly if blight has been an issue for you in the past. Rotting tubers will reveal themselves by emitting a foul odour; you should also get rid of them right away. 3. Add some extra colour to your garden Just because winter is on the way doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy a bit of colour in your garden! Cyclamen is a good shout – particularly Cylamen coum, which is the hardiest species in the family. It has beautiful pink and magenta flowers offset by dark green leaves that flourish during the depths of winter. They should be planted in well-drained soil in a position that receives a lot of shade – preferably under trees or shrubs. Also, the following bulbs can be planted as late as December and still have a good show the following spring: Tulipa ‘Queen of the Night’, Allium ‘Purple Sensation’, Fritillaria ‘Maxima Lutea’, and April-flowering daffodils. When selecting which to buy, check that bulbs are firm to the touch and that there are no signs of mould. Of course, this also applies to any bulbs you may have bought earlier in the season but have forgotten to plant until now, so have a quick trip to the shed to see if you can find any overlooked bags. 4. And bring the colour inside as well You can also bring winter flowering plants inside for colour. A good selection includes azaleas, poinsettias, winter cyclamen, and solanum capsicastrum (the winter cherry). These will fill your home with colour over the holiday period. Although, bear in mind that they’re living decorations, so they will last longer when given a little care and attention. Also, if you’re lucky enough to have some in your garden, gather holly and ivy to brighten up the inside of your home and create some festive cheer! 5. Get some armchair gardening done If the weather is just too bad to head outside, then it’s a good idea to plan what you want to grow in your garden next year. Even on a cold winter’s day, you can dream of the summer to come. Leafing through seed and plant catalogues by the fireside is definitely a pleasant way to spend an afternoon! Getting orders off early will ensure that you get the plants you want before the nurseries run out of them. There are many specialist plant nurseries around the country and most of them produce catalogues. These can be a mine of information and you’ll often come across some little treasures! It’s exciting to try some new varieties each year. By ordering early you have the best chance of getting the varieties you want and having them in good time for sowing. Many people leave it to the last minute to order their seeds and get caught up in the rush of spring orders to seed companies. Don’t be one of them! 6. Protect plants that are vulnerable to frost It’s rare to get severely poor weather in December, but there can often be sharp frosts. So, you need to protect your vulnerable plants accordingly. Firstly, if you haven’t done so already, move pots with borderline hardy plants inside. Specifically, we’d recommend moving them into a cool greenhouse or conservatory. Very little heat is required, otherwise the plants will tend to put on too much growth, which will be very straggly due to the lack of light in December. If you’re not sure which to bring in, start with abutilons, aeoniums, agapanthus, citrus, echeverias, fuchsias, pelargoniums, and salvias. For any vegetables you have on the go, we’d recommend investing in a pop-up cloche. Winter crops need protection from the winds and frost. A cloche can make all the difference to their survival and even their ability to produce modest harvests. Protect hardy lettuces, peas, salad leaves, spinach, Swiss chard, broad beans, and curley parsley using cloches. 7. Keep on top of pruning Winter is pruning time for ornamental and fruiting woody plants. To get started with pruning, you’ll need to get your hands on a pair of loppers and/or secateurs. If you’re not sure which you specifically need, check out our blog “What is the difference between loppers and secateurs?”. Consider shredding the prunings rather than burning them or throwing them away – such shredding makes a terrific mulch, or they can be added to the compost heap. If your garden is mostly shrubs and lawn, keep a pile of shreddings to mix in with grass clippings in the summer. These need plenty of air in them if they are to rot down properly and not form a slimy, stinking mess. Don’t shred any diseased material because the disease will spread. 8. Wrap insulation around outside taps Water expands as ice forms; this can easily cause pipes to rupture, disrupting your home's water supply. Taps can be sealed in multiple layers of hessian to insulate them, or there are devices available on the market designed specifically to do this. If at all feasible, shut off the supply to outdoor faucets and drain the pipe. By doing this, you will eliminate all risk of pipes bursting. 9. Look after your lawn If the grass is frozen or wet, avoid walking on it and instead lay down some boards. When a frozen lawn thaws, yellow patches will have formed if you walk on it. Remove any fallen leaves that have been left on the grass by raking them up. If they are not removed, diseases could spread owing to poor air circulation and the lack of light. 10. Give your houseplants some extra attention Winter brings shorter days, and plants need all the light they can get – especially indoor plants that often only receive light from one side. Plants tend to reach for the light, so keep them on a sunny windowsill and rotate them every few days to prevent them from growing to one side. Large foliage plants, like rubber plants, should have their leaves cleaned. The amount of light reaching the leaf surfaces can be significantly reduced when dust accumulates on them, which negatively affects the leaf surfaces. Conclusion Whether you're a seasoned gardener or an absolute newbie, these tips and tricks for keeping your garden looking its best will come in handy this December. We hope that you’ve found them useful. And, most importantly of all, we hope that you and your family have a very merry Christmas.

Should you get an artificial Christmas tree this year?

It’s nearly that special time of year – a time for seeing family and friends, enjoying delicious food, and, of course, putting up your Christmas tree! Although “real Christmas trees” are fantastic, artificial options are equally as great. In fact, we find the term “fake Christmas tree” a little rude. Artificial Christmas trees are perfect for busy families who don’t want the added stress of wondering if their green houseguest will make it to the big day. They take up less time, they’re easier to store after the holidays, and, when it comes down to it, they look pretty much the same as natural ones. Still unsure? Well, then keep reading! In this beginner’s guide to artificial Christmas trees, we’ll answer all your questions. What are the benefits of artificial Christmas trees? Are they more environmentally friendly than their natural counterparts? How do you make them look as good as possible? If you want to jump to a specific section, click a heading in the contents below. Or, if you decide to go down the natural route, make sure to check out our article "How to keep your Christmas tree alive and looking good". We hope that you find our guides helpful and, more importantly, that you and your family have a very merry Christmas. Contents A brief history of artificial Christmas trees What are the different types of modern artificial Christmas trees? What are the benefits of modern artificial Christmas trees? Are artificial Christmas trees better for the environment? Can you recycle artificial Christmas trees? Are artificial Christmas trees flammable? How do you make your artificial Christmas tree look as good as possible? How do you store an artificial Christmas tree? Conclusion A brief history of artificial Christmas trees In the 19th century, German families began making their own Christmas trees in response to rampant deforestation. Specifically, they used wire and goose feathers that had been coloured green to construct their trees. The Addis Brush Company in Britain realised in the early 1900s that there had to be a better way of making Christmas trees. The brush manufacturer, best known for creating the original toilet brush, utilised the same bristles (again, dyed green) to produce leaves on their trees. Compared to the goose feather trees, these could support substantially greater weight. Then, in the 1950s, aluminium trees were the next big thing. However, they began to lose popularity in the 1960s as consumers wanted products that better mimicked natural trees. What are the different types of modern artificial Christmas trees? Modern-day artificial Christmas trees can be divided into three main categories: those made from PVC, PE, and a mix of the two. PVC Until recent years, all artificial Christmas trees were made from PVC. Specifically, sheets of compressed PVC are used to create the needles by cutting them into long, flat rectangles before being twisted between two strings of wire that act as branches. PE PE, or Polyethylene, is considered to be the only material that truly replicates the look of a real Christmas tree. PE trees are injection moulded, with moulds made using real tree branches, resulting in life-like, three-dimensional needles and branches. Mixed Some artificial trees feature a mix of PVC and PE. The tips of the branches are made with PE for the most realistic look and feel, whilst PVC is used further down the branches to make the tree appear thicker. What are the benefits of artificial Christmas trees? There are many benefits to choosing an artificial Christmas tree: Artificial Christmas trees don’t require any maintenance. There's no need to water or trim it. Unlike real Christmas trees, your floor won’t become covered with innumerable needles. If you have allergies, then an artificial tree can be a great alternative that won't have you sneezing. Real trees are flawed. For some people, part of the fun of having a tree is accepting that quirky unevenness. But if you enjoy the look of a perfect tree, one significant benefit of artificial options is that you can adjust their branches to achieve the exact look you want. When you buy an artificial Christmas tree, you will be saving yourself time for years to come. No longer will you have to schlep down to the garden centre every December to get your new tree! You can buy a pre-lit artificial Christmas tree, which will cut back your decoration time even more. Although, it has to be said that there are some downsides to artificial Christmas trees… Are artificial trees better for the environment? In short, no. Despite what people might think, artificial trees are not better for the environment. The manufacturing process can be harmful to the environment and often results in waste products that have to go somewhere. Also, one study found that artificial trees made from PVC are worse for the planet than their natural counterparts because of how long they take to break down in a landfill. Even though you'll probably use your artificial Christmas tree many times before disposing of it, most plastic items take hundreds of years to degrade when buried in landfills – and many don't even get buried at all. This doesn’t mean you shouldn't buy an artificial Christmas tree; just realise that if your goal is environmental friendliness, there are other ways you could help out more. Can you recycle artificial Christmas trees? Here's the deal: you’re unlikely to be able to recycle your artificial Christmas tree. Artificial trees are made out of many different materials and they all have different recycling requirements. Some of them are recyclable, but they can only be recycled if they're taken apart first. Other types of artificial trees cannot be recycled at all. If you want to know for sure whether or not your tree is recyclable, check with your local recycling centre. Are artificial Christmas trees flammable? Despite the need for flame retardant treatment, artificial Christmas trees are nevertheless more flammable than their natural counterparts. Although they’re still perfectly safe and this shouldn’t be a reason to panic, it’s always worth being as safe as possible. Christmas tree lights should always be turned off at night, cables should never be run beneath carpets or rugs, and wiring should always be checked frequently. How do you make your artificial Christmas tree look as good as possible? We’ve got some top tips to help make your artificial tree look as good as possible. Pick the right size and shape of tree for your space! Although this tip might seem a little obvious, we’ve all bought a piece of furniture or ornament that we think is perfect… until you get it home and realise that it doesn’t fit! So, indulge us for a moment. The top of your tree should be at least six inches from the ceiling. This also takes into account the tree's topper or any other decorative stand that increases its height. Therefore, you would need a seven-and-a-half foot tree if your ceiling is the standard nine feet tall and your angel topper is 12 inches. If you have a large area, choose a wide, full tree; if you have a smaller area, use a narrow or skinny tree. Calculate the floor space you have available and compare it to the size specifications of the tree. Invest in a pre-lit option The pre-lit artificial Christmas tree has grown in popularity recently as it cut down the amount of time you have to spend decorating. If you’re particularly busy, we’d recommend going for one of these options. Leave your tree to stand overnight after you unpack it Whether you just bought it or have had it stored away since last year, leave your tree to stand overnight after you unpack it. In using this small approach, the branch tips will be able to unfurl fully, making it simpler to fluff them. Talking of which… Fluff your tree’s branches Don’t be dismayed if your artificial tree’s branches look a little flat at first – they’ve simply been compressed during storage, particularly if it’s a new tree. You will need to shape, known as "fluffing", the tree's branches in order to make it appear as full as possible. When fluffing, take your time to evenly distribute each branch. This will make sure you get the picture-perfect appearance we all want for Christmas. To make the branches easier to access and ensure that you don't miss any that are hidden away, we advise beginning to pull out and fluff the branches at the bottom and work your way up. For a snowy look, flock your tree Flocking refers to the process of adding a white, powdery material to the branches of a Christmas tree to give it a snow-covered appearance. You can buy flock spray online. Always flock your tree before adorning it with any lights, ornaments, or tinsel for the best, most organic-looking results. How do you store an artificial Christmas tree? Your tree's limbs can be folded down after Christmas so that it fits back in the box. We advise folding the branches back down as tightly as possible to keep them safe from harm, dirt, and dust. When storing your artificial Christmas tree, it's important to remember that not all locations are suitable. You need to make sure that the storage space is dry and well-ventilated – the last thing you want is for moisture to build up inside the PVC/PE branches and cause them to become mouldy! Also, avoid areas with direct sunlight or heat sources like radiators. Conclusion We hope this guide has helped you understand the ins and outs of artificial Christmas trees. If you’re still wondering whether to get one, what we can tell you is that they’re a great way to save time, money, and space at home. Plus, they come in so many different styles that there really is something for everyone! Whatever option you go for, we hope that you and your family have a very merry Christmas.

Our top 10 gardening tips for November

The evenings are getting longer and it’s getting colder. It can only mean one thing. To quote Ned Stark from Game of Thrones, ‘Winter is coming.’ Although there are likely to be a few stunning days here and there, you can definitely tell winter is around the corner. November can be a soggy, frosty, and unforgiving month. Specifically, according to both astronomical and meteorological definitions, winter begins in December. It's advisable to get moving on the work before the true winter weather arrives so that you don't fall behind in the spring. Although many people think the gardening season is ending at this point, it actually just started. When spring arrives, work completed now will save a significant amount of time and effort. So, keep yourself warm by making sure your garden, tools, and plans are all in order! To help get you started, we’ve pulled together our top 10 gardening tips for November. Scroll down to find each tip, or click the links below to be taken directly there: Clear up fallen leaves Consider spring flowering bulbs Finish digging over borders Protect your potted plants from the cold Order seeds early Clean out bird houses Plant tulips Prevent diseases Sharpen your lawn mower Protect tender and newly planted trees and shrubs 1. Clear up fallen leaves We know, we know. You’re sick of hearing about leaves. You’ve heard nothing but how you have to clear them up since late September. The thing is, doing so is very important. So we’re giving you one final reminder! Clear the areas where leaves have fallen. Wet leaves on pathways and lawns are a serious safety hazard for you and your family. There are more benefits to cleaning up your garden’s leaves. Namely, fallen leaves will eventually decompose into leafmould, which is an excellent soil conditioner. If you don't have enough leaves to make a substantial pile, either put them in the compost or pack them into a plastic bag that has been punctured with holes. If you opt for the latter, keep in mind that the leaves need to be moist in order to decompose, so either bag them on a rainy day or add some water. 2. Consider spring flowering bulbs If you're wondering what to do with your garden in November, think about planting spring flowering bulbs. Bulbs are a great way to fill a garden with colour. You can either plant them directly into the ground or into containers on your balcony or patio. We’d personally recommend allium bulbs. Alliums are bulbous perennials that bloom for weeks on end, bridging the transition between spring and summer. They have an incredibly long lifespan, producing stunning pompom flowers in pink, purple, and white that look great when planted in masses. Allium bulbs should be planted between mid-September and mid-November. However, if you run a little behind schedule, it's okay to finish as late as the middle of December. Due to their good subsurface insulation, these bulbs are less vulnerable to temperature variations than most plants. When you’re getting your alliums ready, make sure to: Plant them in groups of three or more. Plant them in a sunny position. Plant them at least 10cm deep with the top of each bulb facing upwards. If all goes well, you should have a stunning display ready for around May or June! 3. Finish digging over borders In your borders, you may have several layers of undigested organic matter, all mixed up with soil. It is important to deal with these layers before they start to turn into a crumbly mess and choke the life out of your plants! You need to dig over your soil. For new horticulturalists, this refers to the process of preparing the ground by digging the soil to remove stones, lumps, and other unwanted matter. Before you start digging over the border, make sure that it’s not too wet or muddy. If it is, leave it for another day until the ground has dried out more. It’s also a good idea to go back along the path between each border and remove any weeds or grass growing there – this will prevent them from returning when you eventually sow seeds and plant new plants next year. If you don’t have the tools needed, check out our forks, spades, and edging tools. 4. Protect your potted plants from the cold With the weather getting colder, you need to look after your potted plants. Containers can be placed in groups for protection – like penguins gathering together to maintain warmth. If the weather turns bad and you don't feel like being outside, bring the beauty of your garden inside. Winter is the time of year when many plants bloom, from tiny flowers like violas to fragrant bushes like viburnums. Older clay pots might not be frost-proof, so even if they are empty, cover them up or bring them inside if it starts to get chilly. Modern plastic or terracotta containers are typically frost-proof. Large pots that can't be brought inside should be insulated. Plants grown outside in containers are more vulnerable to frost damage than plants growing in the open ground, thus they require some shelter from heavy frosts. Wrap the pots firmly in bubble poly or hessian sacking to insulate them. If you’d like to upgrade your patio display, make sure to check out our range of pots. 5. Order seeds early The majority of plants go into dormancy during November, and all plant growth stops for the season. Take the extra time this affords to plan for the coming spring. Looking through seed catalogues is not just a pleasant pastime for a gloomy autumn day when the weather makes it impossible to perform any work outside. You are less likely to be dissatisfied if you place your seed order early because seed suppliers frequently sell out of popular seed lines very rapidly. 6. Clean out bird houses Getting rid of old nesting materials from bird boxes will encourage birds to use them again the following year. Because birds will soon be searching for winter roosts, do this as soon as you can. They are more likely to choose a box as a nesting location if they are already familiar with it by spring. If you don’t have one already, make sure to check out our range of bird houses. 7. Plant tulips The customary month for planting tulips is November. This is because there’s a lower chance that they contract the fungus tulip fire, which causes plants to rot and not develop properly. They should be spaced 10 to 20 cm apart and planted three times or deeper than they are, as shallow planting frequently results in plants that do not bloom the following year. 8. Prevent diseases Picking over your plants once a week to remove any dead leaves or blossoms is therapeutic for both you and your plants. After a long day, doing this kind of work can be incredibly calming. Fungal diseases are the leading cause of greenhouse plant mortality during the wet winter, so by removing the dead material as soon as possible, you'll be halting them in their tracks. Additionally, it is beneficial to sweep the floor to gather any plant debris that has fallen to the ground. 9. Sharpen your lawn mower Send your lawnmower off to be serviced and sharpened. If machines are properly maintained, they perform much better overall. Due to the rush that results from customers waiting until the last minute to have their lawn mowers serviced in the spring, service agents are relatively calm at this time of year. To keep the lawn looking tidy during the winter, don't forget to give it a light trim every now and then. Simply remove the tops - although avoid doing so if the grass is frozen or wet. 10. Protect tender and newly planted trees and shrubs Trees and plants that are young and delicate should be protected against frost and chilly winds. Bitter winds cause damage to foliage by drying it, and high gusts at periods of extreme cold can injure plants more than a heavy frost would alone. Utilize a windbreak consisting of posts and netting. Evergreen bushes and hedging plants need to be protected more from wind than deciduous ones since they are more vulnerable to wind damage. Smaller shrubs and recently planted ones can be shielded from the cold by wrapping them in straw or bracken and securing it with netting. Polythene can also be used as a temporary covering, but it must not come in contact with the leaves of evergreen plants since any moisture that condenses on it will freeze and harm the leaves. Nail the polythene to a cane structure or to wooden battens to support it. Conclusion We hope you enjoy all of these gardening tips and are able to use them in your own garden. If you want to receive these directly in your email, don't forget to share this story on social media and sign up for our newsletter. We hope that you have everything you require to perform at the highest level as a gardener.

The beginner's guide to bug hotels and insect houses

Bugs – or insects, to use the scientific term – are amazing creatures vital to our gardens. They’re integral to the pollination process, they get rid of pests, and they're a source of food for other creatures on the food chain. Although, don’t tell them about the last bit! If you want to attract more beneficial insects to your garden, a bug hotel is what you need. In this guide, we’re going to tell you all about bug hotels, including those designed for specific insects: ladybird houses, butterfly houses, and bee houses. We’ve written this piece to be read from start to finish by someone completely new to bugs. If you're already familiar with our creepy crawly friends and want to skip to a particular topic, click on the relevant topic below in the contents. We hope that you find our guide useful and your garden is visited by loads of beneficial insect guests! Contents What a bug hotel is Beneficial insects in more depth What to look for in a bug hotel General pointers to attract bug hotel guests How to attract ladybirds specifically How to attract butterflies specifically How to attract solitary bees specifically How long until bugs start using your hotel How to clean and maintain your bug hotel Conclusion What a bug hotel is A bug hotel – otherwise known as an insect hotel, bug house, or insect house – is an artificial nesting structure for insects. Specifically, they’re designed to attract beneficial insects: those that prey on pests, help in the pollination process, and, to put it callously, improve the habitat’s food chain. Bug hotels are usually made from wood, although they can also feature brick and, less commonly, plastic and metal. Depending on the type of insect they’re intended for, bug hotels can come in a range of sizes and shapes. Most have multiple sections that offer places for insects to nest, especially during the winter. Such structures are suitable for gardens of any size. Indeed, for those with smaller gardens or even just balcony spaces, they can be a great addition to bring life to the space. If you’re particularly handy, you can build your own insect house. However, there are many options available to buy that are expertly designed to attract and house specific insects. Beneficial insects in more depth Whether you call them beneficial bugs or beneficial insects, the most important thing is that they’re of great benefit to your garden. Case in point, did you know that 80% of all plants – including ornamental plants, food crops, fruit trees, and wild plants – rely on insects to produce fruit and seeds? In short, beneficial insects are those that help pollinate, reduce pests, and increase biodiversity. Although we’ll give great general insect advice in this guide, the three we’re going to focus on are ladybirds, butterflies, and solitary bees. Ladybirds: Pest control Everyone loves a ladybird – aside from the pests they eat! These well-known beetles belong to the Coccinellidae family and consist of more than 40 different species. Not just a pretty face (or more accurately red shell with spots), ladybirds are carnivores who eat pests such as spider mites and aphids. This makes them brilliant garden – and bug hotel – guests. Butterflies: Pollination and adding to the food chain In addition to being beautiful and helping in the pollination process, butterflies play an important role in the food chain as prey for birds, bats, and other insectivorous animals. There are approximately 2,500 species of Lepidoptera (the fancy name for butterflies and moths – they’re pretty similar) in Britain. Butterflies that hibernate prefer sheltered places such as crevices in houses and sheds. However, they can also be enticed into a butterfly house. Solitary bees: Pollination To begin with, although they often look similar, honey bees and bumble bees are not the same solitary bees. Solitary bees are, unsurprisingly, a type of bee that lives on their own instead of within a hive. The majority of these bees will start looking for cover at the start of autumn in order to survive the winter – and there are over 200 species of solitary bee in Britain. This is where your fancy new bee house will come in handy! What to look for in a bug hotel When you’re picking out your bug hotel, make sure: The roof is solid and sturdy; otherwise, it might get wet and start to grow mould. It has a closed-off back so that the bugs inside have more protection. It is constructed mostly from wood – although stone and brick elements are also fine. It is not made from impermeable materials such as glass or plastic. Any holes and openings should be smooth without any splinters. Although there are features suited for all types of bug hotels, ones designed for specific insects have particular features. Ladybird houses Ladybirds hibernate over the winter. They look for sheltered cracks and crevices in which to do this – so make sure your ladybird house’s opening mirror this with horizontal slits. Pictured above is our ready-made Ladybird House. Butterfly houses Butterflies also hibernate over winter. In contrast to the horizontal slits found on ladybird houses, butterfly houses have vertical slits that emulate cracks found in a tree’s bark. Pictured above is our ready-made Butterfly House. Solitary bee houses Solitary bees require tunnels and tubes within which to nest. They won’t use those that are open at both ends, so make sure that those featured in your bee house are closed off at the back. Also, would you like to make your home in a spikey place? No! Make sure that the interiors of the tubes and tunnels are smooth and don’t have any splinters. Pictured above is our ready-made Bee House. General pointers to attract bug hotel guests You’ll get different residents depending on where you place your hotel. Some bugs like cool, damp conditions and others, such as solitary bees, prefer the sun. However, there are some general points to take into consideration. If you have a particular bug you want to see in your garden, skip to the next few sections! Fill chambers with goodies for creepy crawlies If the chambers in your insect house are empty, you can add organic materials like pinecones, bark, straw, decomposing leaves, or twigs. Avoid anything that may have undergone chemical treatment as this may deter insects from entering the home. Avoid using pesticides around your bug hotel Avoid using pesticides around your hotel or in your garden at all to help draw visitors to your insect hotel. In order to promote a natural balance of bacteria and insects, we advise using only organic fertilisers and absolutely no pesticides in your garden. Protection from the rain A self-respecting insect won’t make a sodden and mouldy bug house their home. To prevent mould, bug hotels should be placed so that they’re kept dry and protected. Protection from the wind Choose an area for your bug house that is protected from the wind. Windy areas aren't very conducive to thriving insect populations. On top of potentially causing direct damage, the constant changes in temperature that come with wind won’t please your creepy crawly friends. Protection from mischievous pets Hang your bug hotel four to five feet high so that dogs and cats can’t knock it over… unless they try really hard! Place near a water source Your bug house should be situated close to a water source as many insect species require water to survive. Therefore, make sure there is always somewhere nearby for them to drink from if you want a variety of bugs to hang out with. Place near foliage Placing your insect hotel near an existing tree or bush will make it easy for insects to transfer safely over to your insect hotel. How to attract ladybirds specifically As previously mentioned, a main benefit of ladybirds is their pest control. However, it’s a two-way street – they’ll only be around to eat aphids if there are aphids to eat! So, although it can be tempting to freak out at the first sign of aphids and attempt to remove them, exercising some restraint will often result in a visit from hungry ladybirds. You should also consider placing your ladybird house near plants that attract our red and spotty friends. Namely: Yarrow Carpet bugleweed (ajuga reptans) Alyssum Penstemon Fennel Cinquefoil Tansy Finally, if you want a sure-fire way of getting ladybird guests in your hotel, consider purchasing frozen ladybird larvae. These can be placed within the insect house to give you a kickstart. How to attract butterflies specifically The first place to start with attracting butterflies is wood. To make your butterfly house more attractive to guests, consider furnishing the space. Start with twigs. Also, butterflies prefer woodland to open space, so place your butterfly house in a wooded area of your garden. Once the wood is sorted, consider placing plants butterflies love around the house, such as: Buddleia Marjoram Lavendar Perennial wallflower To make your butterfly house particularly attractive, you can also whip up a sugar solution. Simply mix one part sugar with four parts water, then soak a sponge in the solution. Once the sponge is saturated, place it in the butterfly house. Check-in now and then to make sure it hasn’t gone mouldy and remove it after a week. How to attract solitary bees specifically As a rule of thumb, hang your bee house in a sunny, south-facing spot to encourage your favourite pollinators to settle. Bees need an average temperature of at least 17°C. So, if the weather is too cold, place your bug house in a sun-filled greenhouse or conservatory. If it's too hot outside, move it to a shady spot that's protected from direct sunlight; this will allow for better airflow and ventilation for coolant purposes. Plants that are likely to attract solitary bees include: Lavender Fuschia Heather Viburnum Marjoram Cat mint Also, before hanging the bee house, it is advisable to wipe the straws clean. How long until bugs start using your hotel This depends on the type of bug you're trying to attract, what your garden is like, where you live, what season it is, the weather, and the design of your hotel. So, not too many factors. However, if you’ve done everything right and have a bit of luck, bugs can start booking stays at your hotel within two weeks. How to clean and maintain your bug hotel There is no need to clean insect hotels. Instead, it is advised to completely replace the house after a few seasons of use as the materials deteriorate and become more prone to bacteria and illness. However, if you find that your guests have vacated the premises and you want to spruce things up before new ones come along, you can still do a little spring cleaning. Clean your insect hotel by using an old dustpan and brush, removing any webs and dirt. Use gloves and take care that there isn’t anything still living in your insect hotel when you clean it. Conclusion We hope that you’ve found our guide useful. We wouldn’t want to confuse you or, heaven forbid, bug you out. Terrible puns aside, bug hotels are a wonderful thing to have in your garden. Here are the main points to take away from this guide: Bugs – as long as they’re of the beneficial variety – are great garden guests. Which type of bug hotel you choose, where you place it, and what you use to attract guests depends on which family of insects you want to see in your garden. Although you can make your own bug hotel, we’d recommend buying a pre-built one if you’re looking to attract a specific type of insect. Have fun with your new creepy crawly friends!

The beginner's guide to garden spades, shovels, and forks

Spades, shovels, and forks are three of the most useful tools to have in your garden shed. They are key for digging and preparing land for planting, which is known as "cultivating". On top of this, they can also help with a panoply of other jobs, including stripping grass, chopping up organic matter, and edging borders. However, if you’re new to horticulture – the fancy word for gardening – it may not be obvious what separates the three. Indeed, the average person in the street probably couldn’t tell you the difference between a spade and a shovel. They may even become obstinate when you, after reading this article, explain and ultimately insist that they’re separate tools. We’re getting ahead of ourselves. To help you understand exactly how each tool is unique, as well as when and how to use them, we’ve prepared the following guide. This guide has been written to be read from start to finish by a total beginner. So, if you’re already green-fingered and want to jump to a specific topic, click on whatever topic you’re looking for in the hyperlinked contents section below. Contents Garden spades, shovels, and forks at a glance Spades in more depth – they’re a little more complicated than you might think! Shovels in more depth – yes, they are different to spades! Garden forks in more depth Materials available Top tips on how to use garden spades, shovels, and forks Conclusion Garden spades, shovels, and forks at a glance Garden spades, shovels, and forks are designed to do different (if sometimes similar) jobs: A garden spade is made primarily for digging. A shovel is perfect for moving material like soil, gravel, or sand around. A fork will make breaking up clumps of material into smaller pieces so they're more easily spread. Spades in more depth – they’re a little more complicated than you might think! Typically, a spade has a short handle that is about four feet long and a flat, rectangular blade. Since spades have sharp edges and shovels have rounded edges, you can use a spade more precisely than a shovel, giving you more control over where your blade goes. Garden spades are used for light cultivation rather than earth moving. Cutting sod, reshaping beds, and creating deeper planting holes are all made easier by the blade's shape. The handle's length makes it simple to use while knelt on the ground, and it also eases the strain on your back when lifting. To make things a little bit more complicated, there are a few different types of spades to choose from. Standard garden spade A standard garden spade is best used to prepare beds and move a small amount of soil. The blades on these are rectangular. They work well for most tasks and make good all-purpose gardening tools. Digging spade These have wider blades than regular spades, otherwise they are identical. The wider blade is more efficient at moving earth and is useful for edging. Compared to standard spades, digging spades frequently have a more rounded cutting edge. Transplanting spade The narrow, elongated blade of a transplanting spade makes it simple to remove plant roots. The deep blade is also perfect for digging out established roots when moving plants. Pointed spade Instead of a flat cutting edge, these have a pointed one. Strong roots, rocky or clay soil, and other obstructions can be cut through more easily by the pointed end. Border spade A border spade maintains neat edges around beds and makes holes that are perfect for smaller plants. Although they are smaller and lighter, they resemble a standard or digging spade. They are somewhat similar to edging irons. Edging irons: The border spade’s cousin Edging irons are also known as edging knives, edgers, edging tools, or garden edgers. They are an essential part of any gardener’s toolkit. These curved tools are designed to create a nice edge along garden beds and paths. They can be used for digging out soil as well as cutting into hard, compacted earth. Edging irons come in different shapes and sizes, but they all have a long handle with an end that has been sharpened to cut into the ground easily. Shovels in more depth – yes, they are different to spades! The names spade and shovel are often used interchangeably, even in shops, so it’s no wonder people get confused! Spades and shovels are similar, but there are some key differences that make each useful in different situations. To put it simply, shovels move stuff and spades dig. If you want to dig a hole, choose a spade. If you need to move a pile of loose material, choose a shovel. You may also notice that a spade tends to be straighter than a shovel from handle to blade tip. Whereas the shovel blade is usually angled forward, the spade blade is not. A shovel typically has a long, straight handle that allows you to get plenty of leverage when digging deep holes. In contrast, a shorter shaft works best with a spade and comes in handy when working in tight spaces, such as a flowerbed. Many spades have a “T” or “DY” handle to give you more options for holding it. While you can manage with only a shovel or a spade, your gardening will be more efficient and enjoyable if you have both. Garden forks in more depth A garden fork can loosen and turn over soil in a manner similar to a spade. It can rake out stones and weeds and break up clods thanks to its tines (the technical term for its prongs), which also make it easier to push into the ground. The powerful tines can cut through tough soils that a spade might struggle with. Or, before using a spade, the area can be prepared with the digging fork. In either case, using a digging fork will ease the strain on your body. Materials available Spades, shovels, and forks commonly have metal heads. Though, their handles come in three main options. Fibreglass Fibreglass tools the least expensive option. They are lightweight, which makes them easier to use – although this also makes them less durable and not as well suited for more heavy-duty tasks. They do not conduct heat very well so they are not good for working in hot weather. They can also splinter in a nasty way if not preoperly cared for or used. Metal Metal options have a longer life span than fibreglass tools - but they can be heavier and more expensive. They also conduct heat better than fibreglass tools, so they might be a little tricky to use when working in particularly hot weather! Wood Wood is a great midpoint between the two previous options. As well as being sturdier than fiberglass, it is more easy to replace and care for (we'd recommend treating it with linseed oil once a year). However, wood is still cheaper and easier to manoeuvre than metal. Top tips on how to use garden spades, shovels, and forks Here are some top tips on how to use garden spades, shovels, and forks: When you're moving soil, the blade should be positioned horizontally and parallel to the ground so you don't strain your arm or wrist by having to lift more material than necessary. When digging into hard soil or clay, it's best to use your foot as leverage by kicking away from yourself rather than leaning down against gravity (which is what would happen if you were standing up). Once you've broken through that layer of dirt, move one foot forward so that both feet are now firmly planted in place as leverage for pushing deeper into whatever lies beneath it — and repeat! When digging in rocky soil, be sure to wear gloves so that your hands aren't cut by sharp rocks and debris. When digging holes, be sure to measure the depth and width of what you're doing so that it's uniform all around. When moving dirt around, use a wheelbarrow or cart to carry it from one place to another. Make it a habit to always clean your tools after using them. It can be as easy as hosing down your shovels or using a clean rag to wipe the sap from your pruners. These quick tasks will keep your tools in top condition and ensure that they are prepared for use the following time. Conclusion So there you have it – the beginner's guide to garden spades, shovels, and forks. If you're just starting out in the world of gardening, these tools should be in your shed. Just remember that they're not interchangeable: a garden spade is made primarily for digging, a shovel is perfect for moving material like soil, gravel, or sand around, and a fork will make breaking up clumps of material so it’s more easily spread.

Our top 10 gardening tips for October

It's October. The weather is cooling down, the leaves are turning orange, and we've all busted out our autumn wardrobes. There’s also plenty to be getting on with in the garden. Although, it can be difficult to know where to start with the changing of the season – particularly if you’re new to the horticultural world. To help, we’ve pulled together our top 10 gardening tips for October. You can either click one of the links below to be taken directly to a specific tip, or you can scroll down to read each of our suggestions in order. Clear your paths and lawn of leaves Make your own leaf mould Invest in a fire feature If you have tender plants that can be brought indoors, do so Protect your outdoor tender plants that can’t come inside Give wildlife a helping hand and feed the birds Plant bulbs and bedding Start mulching Plant garlic Prepare your greenhouse for autumn and winter 1. Clear your paths and lawn of leaves It's crucial to clean up autumn’s fallen leaves for a number of reasons. The most important one is that fallen leaves can make patios and paths slick and dangerous to walk on. You don’t want to risk a fall just because you didn’t keep on top of your autumn jobs! Also, the light is blocked where the leaves land on your lawn, which can result in the grass dying off if it is covered for an extended period of time. However, you don't need to clean up the leaves that fall on your garden's borders as they serve as a mulch, as well as a shelter for overwintering animals. 2. Make your own leaf mould Collecting fallen leaves will provide you with the opportunity to make leaf mould, which is a great soil improver. All you need to do is place the leaves in a black polythene bag, poke a few holes in it for air, and wait about 18 months for the decomposition process to take place. Another (and more aesthetically pleasing!) option is to make a leaf bin. To do so, follow these steps: Hammer four wooden fencing stakes into the ground in a square shape. Wrap chicken wire all the way around the frame and fix it in place with some wire. Fill the bin and, again, wait 18 months. 3. Invest in a fire feature Your garden patio will benefit greatly from the addition of a fire feature, whether that be a fire pit, bowl, or chiminea. They create a lovely warmth that will let you entertain guests outside as the temperature drops and the sun starts to go down earlier. Fire bowls and fire pits are similar to each other. The only difference is that pits can be built into the ground itself – although this isn’t always the case and often the two terms are used interchangeably. They are typically made from durable metals like copper or stainless steel, are stand-mounted, and are designed to be portable. For decorative purposes, some have a vintage rust effect, while others have a sleek, contemporary appearance. Chimineas are a little different. In the past, they were used to cook and heat homes; in some isolated areas of the world, they still are. Nowadays, chimineas are used as lovely garden accents to give outdoor spaces a distinctive feel. They are also useful for keeping you and your visitors warm when the weather is a little chilly. 4. If you have tender plants that can be brought indoors, do so In order to survive, tender plants – also known as semi-hardy or half-hardy plants – usually need to be protected or brought indoors when frosts begin. And unfortunately, frosts can start as early as October in the UK! In case you’re unsure if you have any tender plants, popular varieties include fuschia, dahlias, pelargoniums, tree ferns, canna lilies, begonias, and some succulents. Evergreen plants, like pelargoniums, will continue to grow during October, so they will need to be placed in a bright, frost-free environment, like a greenhouse or conservatory. Fuchsias and cannas, among other plants that lose their leaves or die completely, can be kept in the dark; a frost-free shed or garage is the best place for this. 5. Protect your outdoor tender plants that can’t come inside It’s not always possible to bring your large tender plants indoors, so you’ll need to frost-proof them. Doing so is important, as a single night of frost has the potential to kill your plants if they’re delicate! Garden fleece is excellent for shielding plants from frost. The term "frost blanket" is frequently used to describe these kinds of plant protection covers. It is simply draped over plants, much like wrapping a plant, and fastened with string. Straw can also be used. Also, don’t forget to check the covering is still in place after windy weather! 6. Give wildlife a helping hand and feed the birds By piling up some leaves in a secluded area or creating a pile of old logs, you can provide wildlife with a place to hide as it gets colder. If you build a bonfire, enclose it with a wire fence to keep animals out. Additionally, when lighting it, do so from one side to give any animals that might have gotten inside a way out. Also, consider getting your hands on a bird feeder to encourage some feathered friends to pay your garden a visit. Make sure to clean your bird tables and feeders frequently with hot, soapy water and a stiff brush. We’d recommend doing so once every two weeks, making sure to get rid of any food particles and droppings. Doing so is a good idea because birds are vulnerable to several nasty diseases that can accumulate on dirty surfaces! One final bird-based tip: to teach the birds visiting your outside space where to gather, ensure that the feeders are never empty and place them in the same location each time you replenish them. 7. Plant bulbs and bedding Planting bulbs now will help you be prepared for colour next year. The best time to plant summer-flowering lilies is in October, and there is still time to get spring blooms as well. Plan ahead for colour by visiting the garden centre to purchase bedding plants like wallflowers, violas, sweet Williams, and forget-me-nots for the winter and early spring. To get the best selection of colours and varieties, it pays to arrive early. Wallflowers with bare roots are a classic option for spring colour. As garden centres try to make room for their Christmas displays, you might find some good deals! As soon as you get the plants home, plant them. 8. Start mulching Autumn is a good time to cover bare ground with a mulch, such as garden compost, to trap the moisture in the soil. Before you start, make sure to get rid of any weeds, and the mulch should help stop the growth of new ones. Organic-based mulches will also slowly decompose and benefit the soil. We’d recommend putting the mulch down in a layer that is 5cm thick. 9. Plant garlic The start of autumn is a great time to plant your garlic. This is because most varieties benefit from a colder temperature during the initial stage of their growth. Although you may read elsewhere to plant garlic in spring, doing so is likely to lead to a much smaller yield. Rather than sowing seeds as with most other vegetables, individual garlic cloves are planted. Apart from occasional watering during dry spells (unlikely in October!), routine weeding, and snipping off any budding flowers, garlic is typically trouble-free and requires little maintenance. Garlic prefers a sunny location that is well-drained. Plants may become more susceptible to disease if the surrounding foliage is humid or the soil is wet, especially if they are planted in autumn. With the tip 2.5 cm below the soil surface, place the cloves 15 cm apart. You should expect to be able to harvest your October planted garlic by mid-summer. 10. Prepare your greenhouse for autumn and winter It's a good idea to remove any shading from your greenhouse as the light levels drop. Whilst shading paint can be removed straight away, netting can be stored for the following year. Insulate your greenhouse to prepare for the upcoming cold weather. Garden centres sell bubble plastic by the roll. Drawing pins can be used to fasten it to greenhouses with wooden frames. For metal frames, you’ll be able to find the required specialised fixings in your local garden centre. Conclusion We hope that you enjoyed this month's tips and found them useful! If you want to receive these monthly tips and other handy articles directly in your inbox, don't forget to sign up for our newsletter. We'll see you this time next month for our November gardening tips.

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