Home & Garden Extras - Gardening Blog

How to attract birds to your garden and encourage them to stay

Sep 23, 2022 Alex Mason

Are you a newly inspired birder who wants to make your garden a haven for feathered friends? Read on for the basics and some more advanced top tips! Having birds in your garden can be a real delight. On top of being marvellous to watch, they also control pests and help pollinate plants. However, if you’ve never set up your outside space to be avian friendly, it can be a little daunting. We’ve therefore written this article to give you a head start. Below you will find: The basics of bird baths, tables, and feeders; information about different types of bird food; an introduction to bird houses; and some top tips for attracting birds and encouraging them to stay This article has been formatted to be read from start to finish by someone who’s at the beginning of their birding journey. If you have a particular area you want to learn about, click the relevant link below and you’ll be taken directly to the information you need. Contents The basics: Bird baths, tables, and feeders What you should consider when choosing bird food Give birds a place to nest in your garden with a bird house Top tips for attracting birds and encouraging them to stay Conclusion The basics: Bird baths, tables, and feeders Let’s start with the basics. Unsurprisingly, if you’re trying to attract birds to your garden, making it an attractive place for them will help. Like all animals, birds need water and food to survive. They are therefore drawn to spaces where such sustenance is easily available. So, a good starting place to start in attracting them is to invest in bird baths, tables, and feeders. What is a bird bath? A bird bath provides water for birds to drink and bathe in. Bird baths can be made from a variety of materials, including wood, clay, and metal. You can also buy special extra shallow baths designed for smaller species who may find normal ones difficult to reach into. Don't worry yourself over the choice of water you use. In general, tap water that is safe for human consumption can be used in a bird bath. However, if you're still anxious, filtered tap water or bottled spring water will definitely be 100% fine! What is a bird table? Bird tables allow our feathered friends to access food above ground level, making them ideal for feeding species such as robins and thrushes who prefer perching up high rather than flying down low. Bird tables should be placed where there is plenty of cover from predators like cats and foxes. The table should also be easy for you to reach so that you can refill and clean it every week or two. Spread some seeds, suet pellets, or mealworms out on the table area, then sit back and enjoy as colourful birds flock to the food! What is a bird feeder? A bird feeder does exactly what it says on the tin. They are devices placed in an outside space that provide birds with food. There are many different types of bird feeders available, including tube, hopper, and platform varieties. The type of feeder you use will depend on the species you’re trying to attract, as well as your budget. Commonly, feeders are designed to hang. However, we’re particularly fond of the variety that attaches to windows, allowing you to admire birds from the comfort of your home! Window-mounted bird feeders are a wonderful choice for those who want to stay warm whilst they admire the birds! Pictured above is our window mounted feeder by Honeyfields. What you should consider when choosing bird food Bird food is essential to attracting birds to your gardens. It's important to use a variety of bird food as different species have various dietary requirements. You should also consider whether your favourite garden bird species can survive on the types of seeds or other goodies you're offering them - some options may not provide enough nutrition for your favourite birds' diets! So, if you’re looking to attract a certain type of bird, make sure to check what their favourite meal is. Some of our favourite bird food types 1. Nyjer seeds Africa is the nyjer plant's native continent, and it is primarily cultivated there for its edible seeds and oil. Nyjer seeds are extremely nutrient-rich and oil-rich despite their small size. They especially entice hungry bullfinches, greenfinches, chaffinches, and goldfinches. These seeds are best served directly in a seed feeder because of their small size. Alternately, you could scatter a generous handful on a bird table alongside other food mixtures. 2. Peanuts A lot of birds enjoy peanuts! We can't blame them. On top of being a great source of protein, peanuts are a delicious, mess-free, high-oil food that encourages slow energy release. Long-tailed tits, robins, woodpeckers, and blue tits are among the birds that will gladly eat your peanuts. 3. Black sunflower seeds Offer black sunflower seeds to entice a variety of lovely birds to your outdoor space. Many different kinds of birds, including coal tits, goldfinches, chaffinches, and siskins, are attracted to and enticed by black sunflowers. You can grow your own food for birds as well Planting trees or bushes with berries and fruit will entice birds who enjoy such food You can also attract birds by planting a variety of flowers and shrubs that are popular with different species, such as nectar-bearing plants like honeysuckle and lilac. Give birds a place to nest in your garden with a bird house Now that you’ve made your garden an attractive place for birds, give them the option to move in with a bird house! What is a bird house? A bird house is a man-made shelter provided for birds to nest in. Elsewhere you will find such a type of shelter referred to as a bird nesting box, a bird box (not the 2018 film), or the singular word birdhouse (not the Tony Hawks-owned skateboarding company). Bird houses are either open-fronted or have an aperture for birds to gain entry depending on which species of bird they are designed for. They are a great way to attract and keep birds in your garden. However, only certain types of birds use them. So, if you have specific types of birds you’d like to nest in your garden, check now to make sure you’re not disappointed. As a rule of thumb, the species most likely to use nest boxes are members of the tit family, sparrows, nuthatches, robins, woodpeckers, and wrens. Bird houses are what you need to get feathered friends nesting in your garden. Pictured above is our bird house for blue tits. The right size entrances for different types of birds As previously mentioned, different types of birds need different sized entrances. For example, the following opening sizes are required for these birds: 0.5 inch – Finches 1 inch - Blue, coal and marsh tits 1.1 inch - Great tits, tree sparrows, and pied flycatchers 1.3 inch – House sparrows and nuthatches 1.8 inch – Starlings 4 inch – Robins Handily, most bird houses you can buy will offer suggestions as to what species they’re suited for. Where should you place your bird house? The best location for a bird house is one that is elevated and can be seen from a distance. A minimum height of approximately 1.5 metres is required - though the higher the better. Make sure the location you choose is away from constant direct sunlight. If not, there is a chance that the hatchlings inside the box will perish from heat exhaustion. If the box has an open front, it needs to be well buried in vegetation. When to clean out your bird house It's crucial to get rid of old nests after a bird house has been used and abandoned. Species like the blue tit won't use it again if it isn't taken away. Early autumn is the best time of year to clean bird houses, with the old nest being thrown out and any other materials brushed out. Cleaning bird houses will also get rid of bugs, who frequently make them their homes. It's best to keep the interior of the box as dry as possible, so when cleaning out the box, just use a small, stiff brush. Top tips for attracting birds and encouraging them to stay Now you know the basics, here are some further tips to attract birds and encourage them to stay: Keep food and water close by. Don't give them just one thing to eat or drain – vary what you offer and make sure it's fresh. Keep predators away from bird houses and feeders. If your garden is full of cats, squirrels, or other predators, consider hanging a bird house on a tree branch where they can't climb up to it. Birds don't like loud noises that disrupt their peace and quiet. So, keep people away from nests as much as possible when young are learning to fly. Also, consider some background music while you're gardening – it'll help mask any human sounds while still allowing you access when needed. Position feeders close to your bird house to entice feathered visitors to begin exploring your garden. For tits, try leaving out peanuts or sunflower hearts; for woodpeckers and nuthatches, suet; and for robins, wrens, and thrushes, mealworms. Conclusion Hopefully, we’ve given you some great ideas for how to attract birds to your garden. Birds are a beautiful addition to any space, and their unique songs can bring joy to even the most jaded soul!

Garden fire features: Our guide to log-burning fire pits, bowls, globes, baskets, and chimineas

A log-burning fire feature – whether it be a fire pit, bowl, globe, basket, or chiminea – will be a wonderful addition to your outside space. In the spring and summer, they allow you to gather with family and friends, enjoying each other’s company long into the night. During the colder months, they provide a welcoming source of warmth so that you don’t have to miss out on any coveted free time on the patio. And we couldn’t move on without mentioning the main benefit: they’re perfect for toasting marshmallows! We know that many people love the idea of getting their own fire feature in principle, but they’re intimidated by the reality. There are so many different types available and it can be scary dealing with a live flame for the first time. To quell these worries, we’ve put together this guide on all things log-burning fire features. We’ll explain what different fire feature options there are, what to consider when making your choice, and how to use them. If you have a particular question or query you need answering, click the relevant link below and you’ll be taken directly to the corresponding section. We hope that you love your new fire feature! Contents What are fire pits and bowls? What are fire globes? What are fire baskets? What are chimineas? How to choose a fire feature How to use a fire pit, bowl, globe, basket, or metal chiminea How to use a clay chiminea Conclusion Don’t worry, picking and using a fire feature really isn’t that complicated! Pictured above is our Glastonbury Fire Pit. What are fire pits and bowls? Depending on what you read, it can get a little confusing as to what fire pits and bowls are and the differences between them. To begin on shaky footing, there isn’t an official definition as to what a fire pit is – particularly in the garden design world. Indeed, there isn’t even a consensus on how to write the term; elsewhere you’ll find firepit written as one word! The term fire pit can be used to refer to anything from literal pits dug into the ground to moveable structures in an array of sizes. In this guide, we’ll be dealing with the latter type. Although the term fire pit can refer to a literal pit of flames, you don’t have to make such a drastic decision! Fire bowls on the other hand are, unsurprisingly, always bowls held by a stand – normally metal legs. Also, fire bowls are commonly more portable than their pit counterparts. The key common element between the two is that they are structures designed to hold a flame and stop it from spreading. In real terms, there is little difference between fire pits and bowls. Take each option on its own merits. What are fire globes? You may have also heard of fire globes. A fire globe is a specific type of fire bowl. What makes them special is the globe top above the bowl, which commonly features designs cut into the metal. They are a beautiful, elegant, and sophisticated option for people who want a statement piece in their garden. A fire globe could be your garden’s perfect statement piece. Pictured above is our Woodland Scene Fire Globe. What are fire baskets? We’re now starting to move away from the standard fire pit and bowl. A fire basket is a metal basket in which wood can be burned for heat and entertainment. Far more portable than even the lightest bowl, fire baskets are perfect for temporary placement in your outside space. Also, once you’re done burning, you can use the basket to store your logs until you light your next fire! Fire baskets are perfect for people who want a small, light, and easily moveable option. Pictured above is our Square Fire Basket. What are chimineas? A Chiminea (which you’ll also find spelt as ‘chimenea’) is a traditional, open-flame structure that can be found gracing gardens across the world. Chimenea is a Spanish word that means fireplace. This makes sense as chimineas were originally used within homes for heat and for cooking. They differ from fire pits and bowls as they're enclosed and have an opening in the front for placing fuel. The chimenea is usually placed on the ground or on some sort of stand so that you can use it just like a fireplace would be used indoors. Although traditionally made from clay, you will also find options made of cast iron or aluminium. A chiminea looks classy and stylish in any garden. Pictured above is our Bodmin Steel Chiminea. How to choose a fire feature When you're looking for the perfect fire feature for your garden, there are a few things we’d suggest considering. 1. What's your budget? First and foremost, what are you willing to spend on your beloved new garden feature? Although not a perfect science, the larger and more intricate the design, the more the fire feature will cost. However, this rule of thumb may play into your favour depending on the size of space you have available… 2. What space do you have available? Some fire features don't need much space or height clearance around them, while others may require more room. Keep in mind the shape of your space, as it’s important to choose a feature that fits seamlessly into your outdoor area without getting in the way of family, furniture, or foliage. 3. How permanent do you want your fire feature’s placement to be? If you’ll be moving your feature around a lot, we’d recommend opting for a smaller and lighter choice – perhaps even a basket, which is the most portable of all. 4. What fits your garden’s style? As the likely centrepiece of your patio, you need to consider the aesthetics of your new fire feature. For example, some options are designed to artfully rust over time (which we love!), but this isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. 5. How much time will it take to maintain? If you plan to light up the fire pit every night during the summer months, then you'll want to make sure that maintenance is easy so that you can keep up with it daily instead of weekly or monthly. When choosing your fire feature, you need to consider your budget, the space available to you, your garden’s style, and how much time you want to spend on maintenance. Pictured above is our Tintagel Fire Pit. How to use a fire pit, bowl, globe, basket, or metal chiminea Once you’ve got your hands on a fire feature, the moment you’ve been waiting for has finally arrived: it’s time to light it! If you’ve never lit a fire before, don’t worry. We have you covered. Where to place your fire feature First things first, you need to place your fire feature in a great – and more importantly, safe – place. Make sure to set your fire feature away from any flammable objects, such as trees. Also, in case any stray embers start a fire outside of your feature, keep a hose and a bucket of water close by. What to burn Although some fire features can use both wood and charcoal, we’d recommend always going for the former option. Firstly, using wood is far more environmentally friendly. Secondly, after a charcoal fire, your feature will be covered in far more ash and other debris, making clean-up extremely difficult. Dry, seasoned hardwoods are perfect for keeping your flame burning brighter for longer. We highly recommend wood such as oak or birch tree logs. What you need to light your fire: Some dried kiln and logs Matches or a lighter A natural fire lighter Kindling Heat-resistant gloves There’s nothing more exciting than lighting your first fire feature! Pictured above is our Metal Fire Basket. How to light a fire feature in four easy steps Step 1: Arrange your kindling into a tower inside your feature and add your natural fire lighter in the middle. Keep your heat-resistant gloves on to protect your hands. Step 2: Put some small logs or kiln across the kindling. It’s best to arrange them at an angle to allow the oxygen flow and the smoke to leave the feature. It’s important to maintain air gaps to keep your flame burning. Step 3: Now, it’s time to light your firelighter. Wait until the logs are well lit before adding more logs. Step 4: Enjoy your fire bowl! How to keep your fire alight for longer Here are some top tips for keeping your fire feature burning for longer: One common mistake made by people new to fire bowls and pits is using wood filled with moisture. To keep the flame lit, using very dry wood and ensuring your fire has proper ventilation is vital. Fully dry your fire feature before adding any fuel to minimise moisture. Although they’re admittedly harder to light, larger pieces of wood will burn for longer. Make sure your fire feature is protected from the wind. If it’s exposed, the flames will be more likely to go out. If the fire is starting to die down, add more wood. How to put out a fire Stop adding wood or any other fuel you may be using to keep your fire going for about an hour or so before you intend to put it out. Let the fire die down on its own for 30 to 45 minutes. To help things move along faster, you can separate out the logs so they’re not touching – this will make them burn out quicker. At this point, you can move ahead with three options. 1. Water If you go for water, we’d recommend filling a bucket ready. Make sure to stand as far away from the fire as possible when you slowly douse the feature, as the water can turn into scoldingly hot steam. You'll hear sputtering or sizzling as you pour water on the flames. You should keep adding water until all of these noises have subsided. Make sure to wet every piece of ash, even if it isn't glowing or red. Once everything in the feature is covered in water, use a shovel or poker to stir the ashes and embers. If any more steam rises, add more water and keep stirring. Inspect the area surrounding the fire feature for any embers or debris that may have escaped. Wait for the feature to be cool to the touch – and you’re done. However, bear in mind that if you’re using a metal fire feature, the water method is likely to cause rust build-up. So, perhaps sand would be preferable. If in doubt, fill two buckets of water ready to put out your fire. There’s nothing worse than underestimating and having to run back to the tap! 2. Sand To put out your fire using sand, you'll need a shovel. Use it to scoop dry sand into your feature. As with the water method, the next step is to stir it into the ash to ensure that all embers are gone. Again, before you leave the feature, don't forget to check the surroundings for any escaped embers or debris. Sand is a great option if you want to conserve water or avoid a rusty fire feature. 3. Snuffer A snuffer is a lid you place on top of your feature to cut off the fire’s supply of oxygen, which will extinguish the flame. If properly covered, a snuffer should put out a fire in about five minutes. Handily, a snuffer will also acts as a lid to protect the bowl when not in use. Given that all oxygen needs to be cut off, this method will work best with fire pits and bowls which can be completely covered (i.e., not fire globes or baskets), and you should aim to procure a snuffer that covers the bowl entirely. A fire feature snuffer works on the same principle as a candle snuffer: cut off oxygen to starve the flame. How to use a clay chiminea If you’ve opted for a traditional clay chiminea, there are a couple of extra things to bear in mind. However, don’t worry, it’s not too complicated. You’ll just become well acquainted with sand. What to burn in a clay chiminea Although we’ve suggested always using wood over coal, it’s even more important to do so when it comes to clay chimineas. Using coals to light such a chiminea will cause the clay to crack – so definitely go for wood! How to prepare a clay chiminea Before lighting a traditional chiminea, the bottom must be filled with sand to protect the clay from the flame. Putting out your clay chiminea’s flame When you want to put out the fire in a chiminea, you must allow the flame to burn naturally and smother the ashes and embers with sand. Do not use water inside the chiminea as this will damage your its base. Traditionally, chimineas are made from clay. Conclusion Now you know all about the different types of log-burning fire features and how to use them. We hope that our guide has been useful and alleviated any trepidation you may have had at the thought of getting your own fire feature. They really do light up a garden – both literally and figuratively! If you’re to take just one thing from this guide, let it be this: plan ahead. Figure out what type of fire feature will suit your needs best, get your fuel and tools ready ahead of time, and have the requisite supplies to put out the flames safely.

How to keep your Christmas tree alive and looking good

We love a real, live Christmas tree at Home & Garden Extras. Although artificial Christmas trees are a great shortcut, there’s something special about going down the traditional route. If you’re put off by not knowing how to care for a live Christmas tree, don’t worry. You don’t need your own grotto of elves to keep your holiday house guest happy – it’s not sleigh-rocket science. Jokes aside, looking after a tree really isn’t difficult. With the tips we’ve shared below, a decent Christmas tree stand, and a few minutes a day for some TLC, you and your Xmas tree will be fine. To make things simple, we’ve written this article as a step-by-step guide. You’ll find advice on when you should get your live Christmas tree, the different varieties available, how to check if you’re buying a healthy tree, how to prepare your tree, when and how to water it, and, finally, options for disposal. We hope that this guide helps and, more importantly, that you have a very merry Christmas! If you want to jump to a specific section, just click on the relevant link below. Contents When should I buy my Christmas tree? What should I consider when choosing my Christmas tree? What should I do when I get my Christmas tree home? How do I decorate my Christmas tree safely? How often should I water my Christmas tree? How do I get rid of my Christmas tree? Conclusion When should I buy my Christmas tree? To properly care for your green, needle-loving friend, you need to start with a plan. Firstly, when are you going to pick up your tree? Commonly, real Christmas trees will last for five weeks if properly cared for – although they won’t look their best by the end of this period. We’d recommend heading down to the garden centre or tree nursery at the start of December. Therefore, it might even be prudent to do so a little later depending on which variety you go for – but more on that in the next section. Although trees might be a little cheaper in November, the earlier you get yours, the more likely it will be to look a little shabby when the big day comes. When you're getting your turkey ready in the wee hours of Christmas morning, you don’t want to be getting stressed out by bare branches! Having said this, we totally understand if you want to bring the holiday spirit into your home a little earlier. We’re not the Ebenezer Scrooge of online gardening products. If you do decide to get your tree earlier, just make sure to care for it properly so that it looks good for as long as possible. A healthy, well-watered Christmas tree is a happy Christmas tree! What should I consider when choosing my Christmas tree? As previously stated, it’s important to have a plan. Now that you’ve got an idea of when to get your tree, you need to consider what tree you want. Plan ahead: Give yourself enough space and be safe You need to make sure your Christmas tree has a great place to stay. Avoid choosing a spot near sources of heat such as radiators or fireplaces. Heat will dry out your tree, making its needles more likely to fall and maybe even create a fire hazard. If you’re going to have electric-powered decorations, make sure that your spot is near a plug. You don’t want extension cords upon extension cords creating tripping or – you guessed it – fire hazards. Perhaps most importantly, measure your chosen spot with a tape measure – and remember to bring the same tape measure when you buy your tree! Specifically, check what horizontal and vertical space you have to play with. And make sure to include your chosen stand in your calculations – we’ve all made that mistake before. Talking of which, it’s time to grab a stand if you don’t have one already. Choose what kind of Christmas tree stand you want You can’t underestimate the importance of choosing the right Christmas tree stand. Not only do they hold your tree in place, they also allow you to keep them well-watered. To begin with, consider what height of Christmas tree you want. As a rule of thumb, the larger the stand, the larger the tree it can take. Make sure to refer to the manufacturer's guidance for how tall a tree your chosen stand can take. The inches in the products’ names refer to the diameter of trunk that the stand can take. Don’t worry if the trunk you want to go for is a little thin compared to this number, just make sure to go for a stand with thumbscrews. These will let you secure your tree. It’s also worth considering at this point whether you want to invest in a Christmas tree skirt. Although some enjoy the look of a bare stand (we think scrolled Christmas tree stands are particularly lovely), others prefer to cover them up. Pick which kind of tree you want ahead of time As well ask knowing the size of Christmas tree you want (make a checklist: height including stand, branch width, and trunk width), you should consider what type of tree you want. Yes, a ‘Christmas tree’ isn’t a type of tree in and of itself! There are two main choices for Christmas trees: the Nordmann Fir and the Norway Spruce. Each type has different characteristics, but all can be used for decorating a home for Christmas! 1. Nordmann Fir By far the most popular type of Christmas Tree in Europe, the Nordmann Fir (or Abies Nordmanniana if you want the proper, scary name) is a great, low-hassle option. This option is renowned for holding on to its soft-edged needles. Less clean-up is always a massive benefit in our book! This type of tree is also scentless. Depending on your taste, this could be an advantage or disadvantage. Finally, thanks to its thick waxy coating, the Nordmann fir is a wonderful choice for people with allergies. 2. Norway Spruce If you want to go down the traditional route, the Norway Spruce is the tree for you. This variety boasts a lovely shape with lots of branches that are perfect for hanging ornaments in abundance, as well as a lovely ‘Christmassy’ scent. The Norway Spruce can quickly lose its needles once brought indoors, so it's best to buy one closer to Christmas. To help your spruce retain its needles longer, keep it away from radiators and make sure it receives daily watering. A potential downside for those with particularly spacious homes is that they aren’t quite as tall as other varieties. How to check if a live Christmas tree is healthy When you shop for a Christmas tree, it's important to get one that’s in good condition. Here’s what to look for: The tree’s needles should be green and healthy. If they're dry, dull, or brown, move on to the next tree. Each branch should be firm yet elastic. A healthy branch will bounce back when you press down on it; if you feel any give at all or if it snaps off easily, pass on that tree! Check for signs of insects or worms. If there are any holes in the trunk or limbs (or if you see bugs – the biggest giveaway), don't buy the tree. Give the tree a gentle shake. If a lot of its needles fall when you do so, that's another indicator that this isn't a good choice. Before we move on, we have a quick reminder. Bring a tape measure! You don’t want to be cramming your tree into your living room because your eye-balling isn’t as accurate as you thought. What should I do when I get my Christmas tree home? Now that you’ve got the perfect tree, it’s time to get it ready! Find a suitable place and saw the bottom inch of the tree When you get your tree home, you’ll want to take it to a cool, sheltered place to prepare it. If you don't have a garage, you could put it in the shed or the shade of a porch. Cut off the bottom inch of the trunk with a saw. You need to do this as sap forms after five hours of a tree being cut, creating a seal that’ll stop water absorption. Don’t use an axe, as doing so runs the risk of splitting the trunk. If you’re a little intimidated by the idea of using a saw and only have a short trip home, you may be able to ask your tree supplier to cut for you. Just make sure to get to the next step of placing the tree in water within a few hours. Finally, don't drill into the tree or cut a ‘V’ shape at its base! Despite the unbidden advice you might receive from a Christmas know-it-all, this will just damage your tree and hinder water absorption. Once cut, place your Christmas tree in a bucket of water to hydrate Although you can place your tree into its stand straight away, we’d recommend going for a large bucket in your preparation area instead. Doing so will give the tree a chance to take up more water (they can absorb up to four-and-a-half litres in a day when freshly cut!) and will make it easier to observe how it’s getting in. Leave the tree in its bucket for at least eight hours, replenishing the water as and when the level lowers. If the water goes beneath the cut, sap starts to form at the cut, or no water is being absorbed by the tree, cut off another inch and start again. It might seem like overkill, but patience is a virtue – and you want to be in Santa’s good books this time of year! Place your tree in its proper stand After a minimum of eight hours in the bucket, it’s time to place your Christmas tree in its proper stand. Before doing so, we’d recommend putting down some protection on the floor – even some old newspaper will do. Give the tree a quick shake before you move it to get rid of any of the last loose needles. To make things easier, get a friend or family member to help you put up the tree, one of you holding the trunk stable whilst the other focuses on the stand. Once the tree is in place and secure, give it a few hours to settle before you start decorating. How do I decorate my tree safely? Now for the fun part! We’ll leave you and your family to make the aesthetic decisions; but we have some points on safety. Firstly, make sure that there’s no wetness on the branches or needles. Moisture will cause the light bulbs to blow out more easily, so make sure everything’s dry before plugging them in. Finally, don't overload the branches with baubles and other decorations; this will weigh down the branch and cause it to droop over time. Instead, spread out your decor between different branches so that each one has room for its own ornament (or two if necessary). You can also add some weights at key points along the trunk if needed to balance out branches. How often should I water my Christmas tree? Sap at the cut of the tree’s trunk can turn into a solid mass if you don't keep up with watering – so make sure to keep your house guest well hydrated! If the sap is allowed to harden, the whole tree will start to look like a prune. At the very least, your Christmas tree needs to be watered once a day. A good rule of thumb is to give it a litre of water for every inch of the trunk’s diameter. Although you need to be diligent for the entirety of your tree’s stay at your home, the first week is the most important period. There's no need for any special products – plain water is all you need! There's no reason to spray mist around your tree either; simply fill up the reservoir and let nature take its course. How do I get rid of my Christmas tree? Everything good must come to an end – even Christmas. Whether you’re the type of person who removes any trace of the festive period after boxing day or the type who ekes out the decorations until the bitter end, eventually you’ll have to dispose of your tree. Thankfully, real Christmas trees are recyclable. If you want a relatively hands-off option, many local authorities and charities offer recycling schemes – you can find more information on recycling Christmas trees on the government’s website. If you can't bear to part with your festive friend entirely, you can reuse that excess foliage. Simply wait until March when temperatures are high enough for the Christmas tree to become mulch. Conclusion So, there you have it. Not as difficult as you thought, right? To properly care for a real tree, all you need is time to plan, a saw if you want to do the cutting yourself, and a Christmas tree stand that holds enough water. However, we know that you’re busy. A live Christmas tree isn’t for everyone. If you’ve read through our article and it still all sounds too much, you can go for an artificial Christmas tree. The most important thing is that you and your family have a lovely – and relatively stress-free! – Christmas.

Our top 10 gardening tips for September

September sees the end of summer. Specifically, on the twenty-third of the month, we’ll be saying hello to autumn. We know, we know. Time goes so fast. How can it nearly be the end of summer? Look on the bright side. The days are getting shorter and cooler, but you still have plenty of time to enjoy your garden. Also, September is the perfect time to get your garden ready for the winter… yes, that’ll be here before you know it as well! To help you get started in your garden this month, we’ve pulled together our top 10 September gardening tips. You can scroll down to read each of our tips in order, or you can click the links below to be taken straight to specific tips: Tidy your borders Dig up your hardy annuals Harvest your onions Prune your fruit trees to prevent diseases Plant garlic, spinach, and peas Make your own compost Sort your plant containers Cut back your tall shrubs Stock up with spring-flowering bulbs Keep your patio displays looking good 1. Tidy your borders We hate to labour the point, but it’s very important: summer is ending A major downside of this is that September will see the decline of summer bedding plants and hardy perennials like asters, coreopsis, and rudbeckia. To keep your garden neat and to stop the spread of diseases, you need to remove any dead growth. Discard or burn any to prevent infections from spreading to your plants the following year. The remainder can be added to your compost pile. On the other hand, wildlife will eat the seeds and old stems can look quite lovely when covered in frost. So, you might want to leave a few in place until the new year. 2. Dig up your hardy annuals Unlike their half-hardy cousins, which ought to still be colourful and lovely, most hardy annuals will have wound down by September. Any seeds you want to save for the following year should be gathered and placed in labelled envelopes. After this, dig up the plants you want to discard and add them to your compost pile. The extra space can then be used to plant bulbs or springtime flowers like wallflowers. If you’re lacking in the needed tools, check out our range of forks, spades, and edging tools. 3. Harvest your onions The end of September is a perfect time to harvest onions planted in the spring. This is because the coming of cooler weather minimised the risk of damage from direct sun. If you’re unsure, a week or two after the leaves start to turn yellow is the ideal time to harvest. Leave the onions outside directly on top of the soil (out of the rain!) for about a week after harvesting. The outer layer will have time to harden and become less brittle. 4. Prune your fruit trees to prevent diseases Pruning out any dead, diseased, or dejected-looking branches in September is a good idea. This is because fruit tree diseases can get worse over the winter. Pruning, however, can actually worsen disease in trees that produce fruit with stones, such as peaches, plums, cherries, or apricots. So don't prune those ones! To begin the process, remove any branches that are dead, sick, or that are crossing each other. For the majority of varieties, you can trim the sideshoots back to three buds to encourage them to develop into fruiting spurs after trimming the central shoots by a quarter. Only a few of the shoots that have already produced fruit need to be removed from varieties that don't produce spurs (tip bearers), such as the Worcester Pearmain apple variety. If you’re lacking the required tools for pruning, we have selections of loppers and secateurs. Not sure which are used in what circumstances or how? Don’t worry, we’ve already written an article about the differences between loppers and secateurs that will get you up to speed. 5. Plant garlic, spinach, and peas It’s a good idea to plant a selection of vegetables in September. This is because doing so will: Give you an earlier crop in the spring Use otherwise unused soil Save you time when planting in the spring. Plant your garlic cloves 2.5cm deep and 25cm apart in fertile soil. You should see shoots appear before autumn and overwinter, then put on fresh growth in spring. Spinach can be sown now for pickings next spring. Sow direct in shallow drills in well-prepared soil, or in pots. Cover with fleece or a low cloche from October onwards. Peas can be sown in September for an early crop. Choose winter-hardy varieties such as ‘Douce Provence’ or ‘Meteor’. 6. Make your own compost This time of year, there is always a lot of clearing and pruning to be done in the garden. Therefore, now is the perfect time to get your hands on a compost bin. Garden waste can be easily disposed of through composting, which also yields a useful supply of homemade soil enhancer! 7. Sort your plant containers As your summer containers are finishing up, it's time to plant new flowers for autumn and winter colour. Your local garden will have a wide selection of plants for you to choose from. It's important to keep in mind that plants don't grow much in the winter, so pick bigger ones and group them together closely for the best display. If you don’t have any already (or just want a refresh!), check out our range of planters. 8. Cut back your tall shrubs Windy weather at this time of year has the potential to harm plants and even ruin your late-summer display. It’s wise to use canes to support overly heavy plants, such as dahlias and chrysanthemums, in order to lower this risk. Similar to this, by the end of summer, fast-growing shrubs like buddleia, lavatera, and climbing roses have typically gotten quite tall. Reduce the height of their tallest stems by a third to prevent these from being harmed by strong winds. 9. Stock up with spring-flowering bulbs In September, garden centres will be stocked to the brim with spring-flowering bulbs. If you intend to purchase them, act quickly to ensure that you get the best specimens and the most varied selection. Examine those that feel firm to the touch and don't exhibit any mould symptoms. Choose large bulbs because they usually produce the best display. Most bulbs should be planted as soon as possible, but tulip bulbs should wait until November to avoid contracting a disease. 10. Keep your patio displays looking good It will probably be a month or two before the first post-summer frosts appear. To maintain the best appearance for your display of delicate plants in pots and hanging baskets, remove flowers as they wilt, water if the compost feels dry, and feed once a week with a soluble feed. Any slow-release fertiliser applied at planting time will now be beginning to lose its potency; however, giving plants a liquid food will rev them up. Conclusion That's it for this month. Remember to share our article on social media and subscribe to our newsletter if you'd like to get these delivered straight to your inbox. We hope that you've got everything you need to be the top-level gardener we know you are!

Should I get plug and play electric garden lights?

You have hours-upon-hours spare to install and ground a complex electrical system, right? And it goes without saying that you’re a qualified electrician with an encyclopaedic knowledge of which regulatory bodies you’d need to consult when pulling wiring out of your walls. Of course not. You wouldn’t be reading this if that was the case! If you just want some lights in your garden without the headache of getting a professional involved, then a simple low-voltage system run from a standard plug – commonly referred to as "plug and play lights" – could be the perfect option. Like solar-powered garden lights, plug and play options are easy to set up, don't require wiring into your home’s main electrical system, and require little to no maintenance. Whether you should go down the solar or plug and play route is down to personal preference. Would you prefer reliability over low running costs? Do you want brighter lights at the cost of being less environmentally friendly? These are the kind of things you need to consider. We’ve structured this article so that reading it from top to bottom will give you all the information you need to make an informed decision. On top of this, we have a separate article that focuses on solar-powered garden lights. In this article, we’ll start with the benefits and disadvantages of electrical garden lighting generally. Then we’ll explain in more depth what plug and play lights are, how they compare to the more old-fashioned and laborious wired options, and the different fixtures available. Finally, so that you understand what the whole process entails, we’ll explain what you need to consider when planning your plug and play system and how to set it all up. However, if you have a specific question you want answering right now, click the link relevant to you below. You’ll be taken straight to the relevant answer. Contents What are the benefits of electric garden lights? What are the disadvantages of electric garden lights? What are plug and play electric garden lights? Are plug and play garden lights dangerous? What types of plug and play garden lights are there? What do I need to install plug and play lights? What should I consider when planning my plug and play garden lighting setup? How do I install my plug and play garden lights? What if I don’t have an outside plug? Conclusion What are the benefits of electric garden lights? There are many reasons to install lighting in your outside space. For example, you can admire the fruits of your gardening after sun has gone down, add an extra level of security to your home, and you can keep the party going outside long into the night! The benefits of electrical garden lights are numerous, particularly when compared to solar lighting. They: Are brighter than solar lights. Can be left on for as long as you like, whereas solar lights need sunlight to recharge. Are more reliable in winter and cloudy conditions as they don't require sunlight to charge. Electric garden lights are brighter and more reliable than their solar-powered counterparts. What are the disadvantages of electric garden lights? However, there are two main downsides to electric garden lights that you have to consider. Firstly, electric garden lights can be expensive to run – especially if you want to light up your whole outside space. If you were to go with solar lighting, you’d only have to pay the upfront cost of the units. Secondly, most electrical lighting will require a lot of work and potential form-filling when being installed. Even minor electrical changes can require you to speak to regulatory bodies. Unless you have experience and qualifications yourself (in which case, you wouldn’t be reading this), we’d highly recommend using an electrician. And that can incur high financial and time costs. Thankfully, plug and play lights offer an electrical option free of headaches. Although not as reliable or bright as their mains-powered counterparts, solar lights are more environmentally friendly and don’t have any running costs. Pictured above are our Solar 8 Bulb String Lights. What are plug and play electric garden lights? For a simpler solution, we’d recommend a plug and play option – particularly if you have an outdoor plug. Plug and play lights are the new generation of light fixtures that can be plugged into an outlet and used straight away. They come with everything you need already built into them and are easy to install yourself. If you’re looking for ease and don’t want to get an electrician in, plug and play electric lights are your best option. Pictured above is our Deck Light Starter Kit. Are plug and play garden lights dangerous? Plug and play garden lights are low voltage, which makes them safer than high-voltage options. They also have an IP rating – IP standing for "Ingress Protection". This is a rating that measures the level of protection the light offers against various environmental factors, such as dust, moisture, and impact. The main thing you need to know about IP ratings is that they run from zero to six, with zero being completely unprotected and six being fully waterproof. In other words, if you have an IP rating of four or higher, then water won't get inside and damage the electronics within – but if your device has an IP rating below four, then there's no guarantee that it won't suffer damage if exposed to moisture or water over time. Thankfully, reputable plug and play systems, such as what we sell on our website, have IP ratings above four. Just make sure to always check the IP rating before buying or installing such products, and make sure to follow the instructions included with your products. Plug and play lights are safe! Just make sure to check your lights’ IP ratings and always follow the manufacturer’s guidance. Pictured above is our Black Spotlight. What types of plug and play garden lights are there? There are three main types of plug and play garden light fixtures available. 1. Spotlights Spotlights are perfect for accenting your home’s architecture or your favourite garden features. As their name suggests, they cast a focused beam of light onto a target. Want to highlight a specific feature of your garden? Go for a spotlight. Pictured above is our Stainless Steel Spotlight viewed from two angles. 2. Deck lights Deck lights provide a soft glow that lets you see where you're going without blinding anyone who might be walking by. They are perfect for creating a welcoming atmosphere for guests or setting the mood for a bit of me time on the patio. Want to illuminate your deck or patio? Pictured above are two of our Stainless Steel Deck Lights. 3. Bollard lights Bollard lights are best used in landscaped areas where they can be strategically placed to highlight your beautiful plants and flowers. They can also be used to light up pathways at night, minimising the risks of you taking a tumble! Want some light around your borders or paths? Get some bollard lights. Pictured above are our Bollard Lights. What do I need to install plug and play lights? To install a plug and play garden light system, you will need: A power source – either an indoor or outdoor plug A transistor to plug into your power source Light fixtures (i.e., spotlights, deck lights, and/or bollard lights) Cables T-piece Adaptors for every light in your sequence but the last If getting this all together sounds a bit daunting, don't worry. You can get everything you need to begin with a plug and play garden light starter kit. But that's not all. Probably the most important thing you'll need to install plug and play lights is a plan! Starter kits are best for, unsurprisingly, those looking to get started with plug and play electric lights. Pictured above is our Spotlight Starter Kit. What should I consider when planning my plug and play garden lighting setup? Now you know what you need in general to run plug and play lights, it's time to make a plan for your garden specifically. Below are a few things to take into account when you make your plan. 1. What types of lights do you want and where? Have a think about which of the three types of lights (as a reminder, spotlights, deck lights, and bollard lights!) you want in your garden and where. Do you want to create a nice atmosphere with deck lights? Are there some favourite features in your garden you'd like to place a spotlight on? Is there a path that needs to be lit up with bollard lights to avoid a nasty tumble? 2. How big is your garden? An important step in planning your plug and play garden lighting setup is considering the size of your outside space. If you have a larger outside space, you may want to spread out your lights so that they're not all clustered in one area. If you have a smaller space, it's easy to hide extra cords by keeping them out of sight behind bushes and plants. A single cord is easier for homeowners with smaller yards to manage than multiple cords tangled together throughout their property! 3. How many lights do you want? The next step is determining how many lights you'd like per outlet. You'll want enough bulbs so that they look bright while still being affordable enough! Also, you'll need to pay attention to any maximum number of lights for one outlets given by the manufacturer. 4. Have you got enough cable length? Don't make the rookie mistake of not giving yourself enough cable length! On your plan, make a note of the distance between each of your lights and the length of cable (and the number of T-Piece Adaptors) you'll need to connect everything up. 5. How many hours a day (or more likely night!) you'd like your lights to be on for? Next, you'll want to figure out how many hours per day the lights should be on. If you're using garden lights for security purposes, you may only need them on at night when no one is home or whilst you're away. If you're using them as decorations for your yard or garden, however, they'll probably be on a lot longer. Handily, many systems have automatic sensors that can be set to turn the system on and off after a certain amount of time. How do I install my plug and play electric lights? The process couldn’t be more simple: 1. Decide what type of lights you would like to have in your garden As a reminder: Spotlights are great for highlighting specific features. Bollard lights are perfect for lighting paths and borders. Deck lights can create a wonderful ambience in your seating area. 2. Make a detailed plan Pull together your plan considering the points in the previous section and select your lights and cables accordingly. Measure the distance between where you want to place each light and back to your power source. You’ll need a T-Piece Adaptor (commonly, you will get multiple in starter kits) for every light – except for the last light in the sequence. Make sure that you have enough. Now, measure the distance from your power supply to the first light and mark this on your plan. Make sure the total cable length doesn’t exceed the amount you have! Once everything is planned out and you’ve checked you have all the adequate pieces, you’re nearly there. 3. Grab a transformer, plug in, and enjoy! Connect your transformer to a plug to bring everything to life. Ideally, an outside plug should be used. However, it will still work from a plug within your home. What if I don't have an outside plug? If you don't have an outside plug, you can always get one installed. It's definitely best to hire a professional electrician if you're going to go down this route. This will ensure that the installation is done properly and safely. Conclusion If you want an easy and quick way to light up your garden with electricity, plug and play options are perfect – particularly if you already have an outside plug installed. On balance, and considering the temperamentality of British weather, we’d advise going for this option if you don’t mind paying the running costs. Although, if you're looking for a solution that has lower running costs and your garden is exposed to plenty of sunlight, then solar lighting could work for you. Also, doing so has less of an environmental impact in the long run! In the end, it's up to you to decide what best suits your needs. Whatever choice you make, we hope it makes your garden even more beautiful. You’ll invite us around for cocktails on your newly lit deck, right?

Should I get solar garden lights?

By this point, you’re probably aware of solar garden lighting. It’s only becoming a more popular option as homemakers look for sustainable and affordable ways to illuminate their outside spaces. But like any trend that’s wriggled its way into your consciousness, you’re probably unsure of the finer details. Could they be dangerous? Are they cost-effective? Do they even work? In short, are garden solar lights worth it? In this article, we're going to give you some context for solar garden lights and explain their advantages and disadvantages. Once you’re done reading, you’ll be able to make an informed choice for your own garden. If you’re a busy person who wants to skip the detail and nuance, don’t worry. We won’t keep you waiting. In short, we think that they’re great for gardens that get a decent amount of sunlight – particularly during summer. On top of being environmentally friendly, solar garden lighting is cost-effective, easy to install and maintain, and doesn’t require unsightly cables or generators. The big caveat here is ‘for gardens that get a decent amount of sunlight’. If your garden is a little low on natural light during the day, it might be best to go for standard electric lights. Also, solar lights don’t perform as well in the winter as there’s less sun. So, if you want to be outside and enjoying your lights in the winter a lot, again, it may be worth considering electric options. We've written another article about plug and play electric garden lights that you may find useful. There you have it, busy people. Those are the headlines. For those that want the full picture, read on. If you have something in particular you need answering, click the question relevant to you below and you’ll be taken straight to the corresponding section. Contents What are solar garden lights and how do they work? What types of solar garden lights are there? What conditions do solar garden lights need to charge? Are solar garden lights good for the environment? Are solar garden lights easy to install and maintain? Are solar garden lights cost-effective? Are solar garden lights dangerous? Conclusion Have a specific question? If it's listed above, click it to be taken to the relevant section of the article. Pictured above are our Solar Bee String Lights. What are solar garden lights and how do they work? Solar garden lights do exactly what they say on the tin: they use solar energy to produce light for your garden. These lights can be used to create a nice ambience in your outside space or have more practical usages, such as lighting pathways and providing security lighting. You may see different names used when browsing online or the aisles of your local garden centre. For example, ‘solar lanterns’, ‘solar lamps’, or even something like ‘solar path lights’ might be used. Whichever name’s used, ‘solar’ is the important aspect. Specifically, they use solar panels to convert sunlight into electricity, which is stored in a rechargeable battery. Solar Garden Lights are designed to use their charged batteries to emit light at night. This works as the units’ photoresistors register the lack of light and automatically turn on. For this reason, the lights will sometimes turn on during the day if it’s particularly overcast or foggy. There is a panoply of options when it comes to what type of solar garden lights you can buy. Which type of solar garden light you choose depends on how and where you want to use it. What types of solar garden lights are there? Although you can get bogged down in minutiae, there are three main types of solar garden lights: 1. String solar lights These are the older, bigger, and brighter siblings of fairy lights. They come in a variety of cable lengths and styles, including lanterns and classic lightbulbs. Amazing for creating a welcoming ambience for you and your guests, these lights can be suspended from various structures, including decking, fences, pergolas, garden arches, gazebos – even trees! String solar lights are the elder siblings of fairy lights. Pictured above are our Solar Lantern String Lights. 2. Stake lights These are stakes with lights on top that emit low-level illumination perfect for flowerbeds, paths, and borders. They are great for hard-to-reach places where it might be difficult to install an electrical sockets or wiring. Stake lights are perfect for paths, borders, and flowerbeds. Pictured above is our Aluminium Solar Light. 3. Solar lanterns These are LED bulbs housed in lanterns that are designed to be hung from a tall pole or sit freestanding on a table or patio. Given this flexibility, they are great for creating an inviting ambience when entertaining guests. If you want flexibility, solar lanterns are the way to go. Pictured above is our Caged Bulb Light. What conditions do garden solar lights need to charge? These lights will not charge well in shady areas, so you'll want to try and place them where they get direct sunlight. When placed in direct sunlight, it takes about eight hours for a garden solar light to charge fully. This is usually enough to stay on for around 10 hours. A cloudy day or shade that moves over the light can limit lighting time at night. It may also be difficult to get a full charge during the winter months. In short, the battery will store more energy on brighter days, so the light will stay on longer at night. It's simple; more sun during the days means more light at night. Pictured above are our Solar 8 Bulb String Lights. Are solar garden lights good for the environment? Solar garden lights are perfect for people who want to be environmentally friendly but don't want to give up their love of garden lighting. They are environmentally friendly because they don't use electricity. Instead, they use the power of the sun to recharge a rechargeable battery. So when you turn them on at night, you're not only saving energy – you're also saving money! Solar lighting is the environmentally friendly choice for illuminating your garden. Pictured above is our LED Border Light. Are solar garden lights cost-effective? Solar garden lights are the perfect way to light up your garden without having to pay for electricity. You only have one cost upfront: the actual light. Then you don't have to worry about paying to power them – there are no cables or battery replacements needed. Once you've bought your solar lights, you don't have to worry about the cost of powering them! Pictured above is our Aluminium Solar Light. Are solar garden lights easy to install and maintain? Solar garden lights are definitely easy to install and maintain – particularly compared to mains power based lights. To begin with, you don’t have to worry about running wires from your home, or maybe even hiring an electrician. All you have to do is plan ahead a little and find spots for them that are sunny and not obstructed by shadows. Then, you can stake or hang the light in place. In terms of maintenance, all you have to do is keep the solar panel clear of debris, such as dirt, snow, and foliage. Nothing could be easier than installing and maintaing your solar lights. Pictured above are our Solar Lantern String Lights. Are solar garden lights dangerous? Being a responsible homemaker, you may be concerned about the safety of solar garden lights. But that’s not the case. As long as you treat them with proper care, solar lights are not dangerous. You might think that solar lights are dangerous because they have batteries in them. But that's not true! Solar garden lights don't have batteries like the ones you have in your phone – they have photovoltaic cells, which turn sunlight into electricity. They aren't dangerous with proper care. Having said this, the first thing you should do is make sure that your solar garden lights are out of the reach of children and pets. While they might look like toys, they're still functional electrical devices that could be harmful if ingested or tampered with by curious little ones. Also, solar lighting is not as powerful as wired lighting. So, if you need lights for safety or security purposes, go for wired ahead of solar. Unless you’re doing something that shows a particular lack of common sense, your solar lights won't explode, electrocute you, or start a fire. They're just simple, safe little lights that help you see your garden at night without having to worry about hiring an electrician. Don't worry, you're in no danger! Pictured above are our Solar Bottle String Lights. Conclusion Solar garden lights will be great for your garden if it gets a lot of sunlight. They are environmentally friendly, have no running costs, couldn’t be more simple to install or maintain, and don’t require mains power to be run from your home. However, if your garden doesn’t get a lot of sunlight, or you specifically need lights for security or safety, you’d be best going for standard electric lights. Also, if you want to enjoy the lights in your garden a lot during winter, electric lights might also be the best shout.

What are the differences between loppers and secateurs?

If you've spent any time chatting to green-fingered friends or perusing the aisles of your local garden centre, you’ve probably heard of secateurs and loppers. However, as with any new hobby or pursuit, maybe you’re still finding your footing. Or perhaps you’re relatively green-fingered yourself, but not quite sure of all the horticultural nuances! Whatever the case is, we’re here to help. Specifically, in this article you’ll find out what loppers and secateurs are, the differences between them, the two main types of blade design they use, and some tips on usage. If you’re new to gardening, loppers, and secateurs, we’d recommend going through the entirety of this article in order. It has been structured to make sense being read from start to finish. On the other hand, if you don’t need the basics covered and want to check something specific, click the question relevant to you below. You’ll be taken straight to the corresponding section. We hope that our article is useful to you – and, most importantly, we hope that you have fun in your garden! Contents What are secateurs and loppers used for? What are secateurs? How are loppers different to secateurs? What is the difference between anvil and bypass? How do I use secateurs? How do I use loppers? What do I use for even thicker branches? Conclusion What are secateurs and loppers used for? Secateurs and loppers are two of the most common gardening tools. Whichever blade design is used, secateurs and loppers are both essential tools for pruning. For the uninitiated, pruning refers to the reduction or removal of branches and stems. This is done for one, two, or all three of the following reasons: They’re not aesthetically pleasing They’re not necessary for the growth or production of the plant or tree They’re harmful to the health or development of the plant or tree The main difference between secateurs and loppers is what they’re specifically used to cut. To put it in simple terms: Secateurs are used for small branches: those up to 0.5 inches thick Loppers are used for large branches: those 0.5 to roughly 1.5 inches thick Commonly, both tools will have one of two blade designs: anvil or bypass. We’ll cover what these designs are, how they differ, and when and where they should be used later in this guide. What are secateurs? Secateurs are known by a number of names. You might have heard the term ‘pruning shears’ or, if you’re an American, you probably know them as ‘hand pruners’. In Britain, the word ‘secateurs’ is the standard. Secateurs were first mass-produced in Europe during the late-1800s as a means of hand pruning for gardeners who did not want to use their shears on woody stems. Secateurs are the perfect tool to prune branches and stems up to 0.5 inches. Pictured are our Professional Anvil Aluminium Secateurs. You can think of them as scissors used for cutting through stems and thin branches – those up to 0.5 inches thick, to be specific. Like scissors, secateurs are designed to be used one-handed. They're great for quick pruning jobs where you don't need a lot of force or leverage. Secateurs are lightweight and easy to use, but they don't offer much leverage when cutting – which means they can’t be used on thick branches. They have two handles at opposite ends of the blade, with one handle being shorter than the other. This allows you to apply pressure on the longer handle while pulling against the shorter handle so that you can cut through (relatively speaking!) thick things without having to exert too much strength. How are loppers different to secateurs? Loppers first appeared in Europe during the 1800s, when people began using them as an alternative to saws or axes. They wanted a tool that would allow them to cut branches from larger trees without causing damage or having to cut them twice. They have a longer handle and a lever action that allows you to cut thicker branches with more force than you'd be able to use with secateurs alone. They're also good for cutting off branches that are too large for secateurs to handle on their own, as well as for cutting small branches off tall trees that would otherwise be unreachable. Branches are the perfect tool to prune branches thicker than 0.5 inches. Pictured is our Power Cut Vario Lopper. Some loppers have telescopic handles, which allow you to get to branches which are even further away. Others offer various cutting functions to give you extra flexibility when pruning trees. Keeping up? Good. But before you start thinking that you’re a secateur and lopper whizz, you need to know the difference between anvil and bypass designs. What is the difference between anvil and bypass? There are two main types of secateurs and loppers: anvil and bypass. When you go to buy a pair of secateurs or loppers, it will say anvil or bypass in the product’s name – or, if not, somewhere else obvious! Anvil designs use two jaws with blades set at an angle to meet each other when clamping down on the material being cut. Bypass designs have jaws set parallel to each other (one above the other) so that material being cut passes through both jaws at once instead of being squeezed between them. A bit too technical for you? Don’t worry – we know that most of our readers aren’t engineers! In practical terms, bypass blades are kind of like big scissors and cut straight through, whilst an anvil blade crushes rather than cuts. Anvil blades have the advantages of exerting more power and being much less likely to jam, but they are also more likely to crush than to cut and are a lot less precise. This means they leave untidy wounds, which are more susceptible to becoming infected. Bypass loppers and secateurs are the preferred type, unless you're dealing with dead wood or particularly tough branches. For these reasons, anvil secateurs and loppers are best used on dead material and particularly resilient branches that bypass blades just can’t manage. In any other situation, it’s advised to go for an anvil. So, now that you know all the theory, let’s get to some tips on how to use your tools! How do I use secateurs? Thankfully, using secateurs is pretty simple. Once you’ve identified the branches and stems you want to cut (up to 0.5 inches thick), follow this process: Place the secateurs’ blades around the branch or stem Move the secateurs’ blades to where you want to cut, making sure you’re aiming with the fulcrum Close the secateurs’ handles in one smooth motion Open the secateurs’ handles and repeat steps 1 to 3 on the next branch or stem In terms of technique, make sure not to operate your secateurs with your fingertips, but rather with the ball of your preferred hand and the base of your fingers. Doing so will lead to less hand fatigue, meaning you can get more work done in the garden in one session! Always aim to cut at the fulcrum for the best cut, maintain blades, and to lessen hand fatigue. Aiming with the fulcrum has already been mentioned – but it’s worth reiterating. As well as keeping your secateurs in good condition, doing so will also be easier on your hands compared to cutting with the tops of the blades. We’d also recommend investing in a tool belt or gardening apron. In addition to making you look pretty cool, doing so will make it less likely that you misplace your new favourite secateurs whilst you’re working away! Before and after every session, make sure to clean your secateurs. Doing so will lessen the likelihood of spreading diseases to your plants and trees. Also, you should also make sure to sharpen the tool when needed (i.e., when it’s becoming dull and you’re finding it difficult to cut) and store them away safely. We’d recommend investing in a gardening tool sheath. Finally, if you’re struggling to cut a branch with your secateurs, it’s time to switch to your lopper. How do I use loppers? For branches 0.5 to roughly 1.5 inches thick, you’ll need a lopper. The steps for lopping (our personal favourite verb) are much the same as pruning with secateurs: Place the lopper’s blades around the branch or stem Move the lopper’s blades to where you want to cut, making sure you’re aiming with the fulcrum Close the handles in one smooth motion Open the handles and repeat steps 1 to 3 In terms of technique, much of the same advice from the previous sections is relevant. Although, your loppers are unlikely to fit into an apron – so avoid that gardening fashion crime. More relevant is keeping your tools clean and sharp, as well as aiming with the fulcrum. Lopper cutting technique is the same as with secateurs – everything's just a little bigger! In addition to this, you’ll be dealing with trees when lopping. In which case, make sure to cut away from the trunk, and don’t cut through the collar (the fleshy nub where the branch meets the tree), cut just above it. What do I use for even thicker branches? As you get towards branches around two inches thick, you may need to start thinking of moving to an axe or a saw. Obviously, always follow your product manufacturer’s instructions and guidance. Is the branch too thick to use a lopper? Time to switch to a saw or an axe. Pictured is our Pruning Saw. Conclusion So, there you have it. You now know the basics of secateurs and loppers. The biggest takeaways are: For stems and branches up to 0.5 inches thick, use secateurs For branches from 0.5 to roughly 1.5 inches, use a lopper Use bypass designs for live stems and branches Use anvil designs for dead stems and branches, as well as for particularly difficult cuts that require extra power For a branch approaching 2 inches in thickness, consider switching to a saw or an axe

Our top 10 gardening tips for August

August is a fantastic time for gardening. Despite the temperamentality of British weather, it’s sure to be dry, warm, and sunny. At least most of the time! On top of this, August is the point of summer when you can start getting things ready for autumn, winter, and even spring. This might seem a little premature, but trust us – time moves fast. In what will seem like the blink of an eye, you’ll be soon enjoying the fruits (or veggies if you’d prefer!) of your labour. We know that it can be difficult to know where to start if you’re new to horticulture. Heck, even we need to remind ourselves what we should be doing sometimes! So, we’ve pulled together our top 10 gardening tips for August to get you started. Scroll down to find each tip, or click the linked list below to be taken to the relevant point in full: Prune your ornamental trees Deal with tough weeds Plant spring bulbs Damp down your greenhouse’s floor Harvest your sweetcorn Sow green manures to fill in empty spaces Clean your water pumps Deadhead your flowering plants regularly Have a clear out Have a party to enjoy your garden! 1. Prune your ornamental trees Because there are fewer diseases likely to infect bark wounds at this time of year, August is a fantastic month to prune ornamental trees. Doing so will also allow the trees to fully heal before winter. To begin with, remove any weak growth, diseased branches, or unwanted stems from the tree. After this, identify branches and stems that rub against or cross each other. These can be sites for infection. So, to play things safe, make ‘the survival of the fittest’ your mantra and remove the worst-looking of the two. Finally, take off any branches which make the tree look lop-sided or are going in the wrong direction. Before you run out into your garden to give your trees a clean cut, make sure you’re properly equipped. Always use sharp, well-kept tools when pruning trees to ensure clean cuts. If you’re in the market for new tools, we have a wide selection of pruners, secateurs, and loppers to browse. 2. Deal with tough weeds It’s difficult to blame weeds for wanting to hang out in your garden. After all, you’ve put so much work into making it a lovely location to spend time in. However, they’ve got to go. August is the perfect time to spray weed-killer on particularly tough customers. Weeds are naturally drawing energy back into their roots during late summer, so they are more likely to take in a lethal dose. A word of warning that, although obvious, can’t be overstated: Do not spray anything you want to keep! Also, you need to keep yourself safe. Make sure to wear protective clothing and eye protection when applying the weed-killer so that you don't get any on your skin or eyes. 3. Plant spring bulbs Even though it might seem absurd to be considering spring already (it's more than half a year away!), most garden centres will have their bulb displays set up by August. Buying them sooner rather than later is smart. You'll have the best selection of varieties and the babies will be in excellent shape. Look for autumn crocus, calcium, sternbergia, amaryllis, and nerine – those are our favourites. Most bulbs, excluding tulips, can be planted straight away. If you haven’t got any space in your garden yet, store the bulbs in a dry, cool place until you make some room. A shed would be perfect. Although, make a note that you put them there as it’s all too easy for them to end up forgotten! 4. Damp down your greenhouse’s floor When it's hot outside, keep your greenhouse cool by misting the floor. As the water evaporates, it will cool and humidify the air. To promote air circulation, it's also a good idea to open the doors, vents, and windows. Additionally, this lessens the possibility of developing fungal diseases, which prefer static air. 5. Harvest your sweetcorn From mid-summer onwards, your sweetcorn cobs should have started to ripen. So, it’s time to start harvesting! To check ripened, peel back a small amount of the husk and prick a kernel with your fingernail. The corn isn't yet ripe if a watery liquid squirts out. The corn is ready if the liquid is creamy. However, the corn is over-mature if it's paste-like. Sweetcorn loses its flavour quickly once picked, so only harvest as needed and eat it right away. 6. Sow green manures to fill in empty spaces At this time of year, you probably have lots of empty space as you clear the ground faster than you can fill in. There’s nothing wrong with leaving bare soil, though you can make it work over winter by sowing a green manure crop. These are fast-growing plants often sown to cover bare soil. Green manures have lots of benefits: Their roots stop soil erosion Their foliage smothers weeds They replenish important nutrients in the soil They enhance soil structure when inserted into the ground while still green They prevent a hard crust forming on the soil They will provide bulky pant material that can be dug in before the spring crops go in or can be added to the compost heap Choose hardy green manures, such as winter tares, clovers or phacelia, and sow when the soil is warm and moist. 7. Clean your water pumps If you’re lucky enough to have a pond in your garden, make sure to clean its pump! Midsummer is a great time to clean water pumps. Doing so will keep the pump working properly and should help prolong its life. Never wash the filter with tap water, as it contains chlorine that can kill bacteria that are vital to pond life. Instead, clean it in a bucket of water taken from the pond itself. 8. Deadhead your flowering plants regularly Deadheading is the practice of removing spent flower heads from your plants. It’s an important part of gardening for several reasons. Firstly, deadheading will encourage more flowers. Removing the dead blooms on a plant allows room for new flowers to grow, which means your garden will become even more pretty and colourful! Secondly, deadheading will help keep plants looking tidy. If you don’t regularly remove dead or dying blooms, they’ll lay down and look messy rather than staying upright and neat as they should be. It can also distract from blooms that are doing well. Thirdly, deadheading can help prevent diseases in certain plants – for example, roses. By removing dead flowers and leaves, you reduce the risk of disease spreading throughout your garden by limiting how much debris there is lying around. Finally, deadheading prolongs the life of summer-blooming annuals. This happens as eliminating extra foliage near where stems emerge from buds reduces competition between stem tips for limited resources like sunlight. When there’s competition, weaker stems form. 9. Have a clear out August is the perfect time of year to have a good clear-out of your garden shed and chuck any ornaments you’ve got bored of. It’s sunny and dry – you don’t want to be lugging things about in the mud! But remember: if you are going to throw things away, do so responsibly. Even if you don't want to get rid of anything at all — and that's okay, too! — it’s always good to make sure everything is neat and well organised. If you’d like to make moving things around the garden easier, check out our range of trollies and waggons. 10. Have a party to enjoy your garden! Although not really a ‘gardening tip’, we think it’s important to say: Make the most of your garden by inviting friends and family around! You’ve worked so hard to make your garden a beautiful, bountiful space. So, it deserves to be enjoyed by those you love. If you’re not sure where to start, we’d suggest checking our barbeques, outdoor drinks holders, and garden games. Conclusion So, there you have it. You now know our top 10 gardening tips for August. We hope you find these tips helpful. Although, make sure to remember that gardening is a fun and rewarding hobby that can bring joy to your life. Don’t stress if things aren’t perfect – just enjoy. Well, what are you waiting for? Get out there with your spade and a smile!

Our top 10 gardening tips for July

It’s July and summer is in full swing. The sun is shining, the days are long, and it’s hot, hot, hot. Experienced and new gardeners alike will be biting at the bit to get outside and work on their little slices of heaven. Whichever of these groups you find yourself in, our top 10 gardening tips for July will give you a good start. Scroll down to find each tip, or click the linked bullet points below: Keep your patio displays looking good Provide water for wildlife Trim your hedges Be mindful of your water usage Pick your fruit Take care of your lawn without overwatering Care for your houseplants whilst on holiday Start harvesting your garlic Clean your garden decorations Start harvesting your onions 1. Keep your patio displays looking good With the proper care, you can ensure that your patio containers and hanging baskets are resplendent until the first frosts come in. To begin with, touch your displays’ compost every morning with your hand. If things feel dry, a good soaking is in order. When it’s particularly hot, it's worth checking multiple times throughout the day. As well as watering, you need to give your plants a soluble feed once a week. Also, make sure to cut flowers as soon as they start to fade. This will immediately improve how the plant looks and encourage new buds. If you're leaving for a few days and don’t have a friend to call any favours in with, give your containers and hanging baskets a good soak and set them up in a shaded area. Don't worry if you haven't set up your displays yet. You can find a range of planters, including hanging baskets and patio planters, on our website. 2. Provide water for wildlife Understandably, the wildlife that frequents your garden will become particularly thirsty in the heat of July. So, make sure to regularly top off your birdbaths and water bowls. If you forget too often, you'll soon discover that birds can be fickle. They won't come back to your garden if they can’t quench their thirst. Also, wash your water bowls thoroughly at least once every two weeks to prevent the spread of diseases. A poorly animal isn’t a happy animal. 3. Trim your hedges July is a key month for trimming your hedges. Doing so will keep them neat and restrict their growth, making sure that they don’t become unruly. Also, when you trim in the summer, your hedges will continue to look tidy until the following year because the growth rates slow in the autumn. Always be safe! Before you start to trim, make sure to check for nesting birds and other wildlife. Hedging shears and cordless or electric hedge trimmers are the tools to use. You'll get the best finish when trimming hedges containing small-leafed shrubs – such as privet and shrubby honeysuckle – using shears or a hedge trimmer. When pruning hedges planted with large-leafed shrubs – such as holly and laurel – use secateurs. Doing so will allow you to neatly cut stems without leaving tattered foliage. You will find a selection of secateurs on our website if you don't have any or want to upgrade. 4. Be mindful of your water usage Don't make the beginner’s mistake of panicking when the weather is dry and watering everything. Both established plants and lawns will quickly turn green again once the rain returns. This being said, anything planted within the last month or so will require assistance. Instead of misting plants daily, it's preferable to drench them once a week to prevent shallow roots that are susceptible to drying out. To be more sustainable, try to use grey water and water butts whenever you can. Grey water is gently used wastewater from places like the laundry, kitchen, and bathroom. It is very different to black water, which is taken from the toilet. Never use the latter. A water butt is a sizable outdoor container used for collecting and storing rainwater. Because rainwater is excellent for plants, it has a lot of advantages for saving money on water bills, reducing water waste, and lowering your carbon footprint. 5. Pick your fruit There are many things to look forward to in July. One of our favourites is the pleasure of picking summer fruit. The following fruits should be ready to pick in July: Early plumbs Blackberries Black, red, and white currants Gooseberries Raspberries Blueberries As soon as the fruits are ripe, pick them. Many pests and hungry wildlife will prey on your crops before you can enjoy them! 6. Take care of your lawn without overwatering During dry spells, lawns frequently turn yellow, and it can be tempting to water them. Sadly, it takes a lot of water to keep them green, which might not be feasible – particularly if there’s a dreaded hosepipe ban! So, leave your grass unwatered and let nature take its course instead. Lawns rarely completely die off during a drought, and they will soon return to green when the rains come. Here are some tips to help your lawn look its best during dry weather: Set your mower blades higher to allow your grass to grow longer. Your lawn will experience less stress as a result. However, make sure to cut your lawn at least once a week as long grass is far harder to cut. When you mow your lawn, leave the grass clippings in place because they will act as a mulch and help to retain moisture. Make sure your lawn is free of any obvious weeds, as they compete for moisture. If you really want to give your lawn some TLC, consider investing in a Professional Grass Shear. 7. Care for your houseplants whilst on holiday Your houseplants deserve as much attention as your garden – particularly if you’re heading off on holiday! A big watering and moving the plant to a cool, darker area to stop drying out will be enough if you’re only away for a short while. You can also consider the bag method when on short trips. Your plant should be covered with a clear plastic bag that is sealed shut. This enables the plant to collect and reuse water vapour. By supporting the bag with canes, you can prevent the sides from coming into contact with the plant. For longer trips away, consider the wick method. This method is useful for large single-pot plants. Use a large container to hold water and a piece of capillary matting as a wick. Insert one end of the wick into the reservoir and tuck the other end into the plant pot. This will enable the plant to draw on the water reserves in the reservoir. 8. Start harvesting your garlic You should be able to start harvesting garlic in July. How do you know if your garlic is ready to harvest? Check the leaves. If they’re a third brown or yellow, you’re ready to test your garlic. Just loosen up some dirt above one or two bulbs and see how they’re doing. If they’re a good size, it’s time to dig them up. If they’re a little small, you can put back the soil and leave them to grow a bit longer. However, make sure to dig them up whatever their size once the leaves are two-thirds brown – once the leaves go fully brown the bulbs will be inedible! Harvesting garlic is pretty simple. Just gently dig them up (don’t pull them!) and place out of the sun quickly to avoid blanching. Then pop the unwashed bulbs into a dark, dry place like a shed to dry. Depending on the weather, this should take two to four weeks. Garlic can usually be stored for several months. 9. Clean your garden decorations A cool summer afternoon is ideal for cleaning and rinsing your beloved garden decorations. They'll be sparkling in the sunlight and ready to greet you for a stroll in the evening. You might use the warm, dry weather to reapply protective paint to wrought iron garden ornaments and sand off any rusty areas. Or, if you like rust, you might consider checking out our decorative stakes that are designed to go rusty. 10. Start harvesting your onions Onions planted in the autumn should be ready to harvest by July. If the onions’ leaves are yellowing and toppling, it’s a sign that the crop has reached maturity. Make sure to harvest before the foliage dies completely. With a fork, carefully lift out the bulbs. You need to be gentle so as to not cause any damage or bruising. The onions should then be placed on a drying rack and left to ripen in the sun for two weeks. If it’s a bit wet, you can complete this process in a greenhouse or well-ventilated shed. Once the foliage is papery and dry, the onions are ready to store. Onions planted in the autumn should keep if stored properly until the early winter. Conclusion We hope these tips will help you enjoy your garden in March. For more gardening tips and guides, make sure to check out our blog.

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